I am releived I finally have it hooked up as it should be. The nightmare of picking up someone elses bodge job I guess!

The carb rubbers are pretty knackered, stiff and some signs of perishing showing so I think I will replace anyway and see how it improves things.

Is there a more accurate way of balancing carbs off bike other than the 1mm drill method? Would using a smaller feeler guage etc give me a better result?

Carb ID is VD, can't see any other numbers or codes on them other than this stamped on side.

fasttom wrote:I am releived I finally have it hooked up as it should be. The nightmare of picking up someone elses bodge job I guess!

The carb rubbers are pretty knackered, stiff and some signs of perishing showing so I think I will replace anyway and see how it improves things.

Is there a more accurate way of balancing carbs off bike other than the 1mm drill method? Would using a smaller feeler guage etc give me a better result?

Carb ID is VD, can't see any other numbers or codes on them other than this stamped on side.

Yes there NC24 carbs.

Get some new rubbers ordered up they will make things 100% better.

Next, yes you can use a vaccum balance gauge to balance the carbs but first.

1. Your valve clearances need to be sorted before balancing carbs else its a waste of time (easy to do on NC24 no shims to buy, only a screwdriver, spanner and set of feeler gauges)

2. Set the carbs up properly (check jets and float heights and pilot screws)

3. Balance carbs with vaccum gagues.

Should idle like a swiss watch after that.

NC24 should have 115 jets all around, the emulsion tubes that the jets go in have different number of holes in them, the front carbs should have the 4 hole tubes, the rear carbs the 5 hole tubes.

Set the float heights to 6.8mm if there not there already and the pilot screws to 2 complete turns (720 degrees.. use a spot painted on a screwdriver handle to help) out from fully in.

Bought new carb rubbers today so a few quid lighter :) So hopefully that will make the difference.

In relation to doing the valve clearances is there a good guide on here anywhere? I assume it is a different process to the NC30 procedure?

Thanks

Yes. There are no shims, there traditional locknut style tappet adjusters

You slacken the locknut and use a flat headed screwdriver to adjust the clearance tigher or looser depending on what is required.

It's not too difficult. The timing marks are starter clutch to get it timed up, if you read the valve clearances therad somebody mentioend the 24 in detail perhaps, i can't remember off hand.