Ive just done mine today, i used a 10amp fuse, only wired from live v+ of battery to reg and cut the original insulation wrapped around and soldered on, also all crimps were also crimped and then soldered and then heat shrunk/sealed i have upgraded my earths before hand so know that the earth was unessary

Will test on my next engine start the little girl next door (2years) goes mental at any noise so i try limit starting it.

i have made a loom for scott as promised but again only lives so upgrade them earths pal

When you have your's fitted Ricky could you send me a pic? Once again many thanks.

For those that modify their wiring, I would be interested in the before and after voltage at the battery, just curious to see the effect.

magg wrote:For those that modify their wiring, I would be interested in the before and after voltage at the battery, just curious to see the effect.

I posted my before and after voltage earlier, quite a difference!

Just be careful that you don't end up over-charging and cooking the battery

Yes that was a concern!

Hopefully all shall be well, I just don't want a lithium battery exploding under my arse.
I can imagine it to be rather painful.......

Battery types other than lead/acid may need a specific charging pattern as dictated by the manufacturer and may not be supported by the normal charging systems configuration. Best to check with the supplier that his battery is compatible.

For the lead/acid battery normally fitted to our bikes, a correctly functioning rect/reg should not overcharge the battery. The bigger risk IMO is undercharging the battery, which I believe is a common problem. Continual undercharging shortens battery life at best and can ultimately lead to flat battery problems, that seem common to many bikes.

thunderace wrote:Just be careful that you don't end up over-charging and cooking the battery

All thats been do is a shorter run of cable from reg to bat, all this is doing is correcting a volt drop which has occured from crap joints, 20+ years of loom deterioration and the run if cable, you cannot over charge it, thats determined by the alternator and reg rec doing there job correctly.

The battery will get 14v chucked at it (or watever the reg is putting out) no matter wat when the engine is running. Which is fine for lead acid batterys, but Lipo batterys need each cell balence charging, thats why i never been convinced about them, tho there is one available now with an internal balencer, that and there nominal votlage is about 14.8v so i've often wondered if they would blow bulbs more often......
Think i'm gonna have a play about with mine over the next month all been well.
Cheers
Ian

Depending on the figures from my bike I might consider doing this. However, I do have a couple of questions first, so here goes..

Seeing as the negative is the earth, is there any real point in running the negative back to the battery other than to get a better earth as the best earth point is attached to the battery? Would creating an earthing point by bolting the connection to the stud that holds the reg/rec on not do the same job, or is the subframe not a very good earthing point?

Given the low current that battery chargers use, is 10 or 20A in the fuse not a heck of a lot of current to allow back to the battery, or it that taking into account that most of the load would be taken by the ignition, headlights, etc..?

Is there any mileage in replacing the wiring from the alternator to the reg/rec as well?