Phase AC is a dud, I suggest you check all the connectors on the three yellow wires coming from the stator. There might be a bad one that explains the lose of one phase.

To change the statir u need a massive bolt rickO sells em for a fiver u put it in the threaded hole and hit it with a hammer and the flywheel comes off and under it is the stator , you need to also undo the bolt first which can be tough so put the bike in 6th gear and have a mate hold the rear brake , this will stop it spinning ao you can hopefully undo it, if not a impact wrench helps

magg wrote:Phase AC is a dud, I suggest you check all the connectors on the three yellow wires coming from the stator. There might be a bad one that explains the lose of one phase.

Checked my output readings again, all three at about 45V, must have had it not connected on one, or shorted or something.

Checked cables, they had be cut, and connected with bullet and spade connectors. Very badly, stripped them out, and just crimped them together to test. Now getting around 12V across the battery when engine isn't running. Now getting just over 13V across it on low idle. Is this what i'm looking for?

Cheers for the help so far!

In a word, yes.

Cheers Guys! Now on a quest for a new bottom rad and fan!

Contact Geoff, he seems to be the radiator man!

Before it gets any worse though.

Make sure the check batter voltage at 5000rpm.

and solder proper connectors onto those wires or it will all melt again when it goes corroded.

The original plug melts away if it gets too corroded and the bullet connectors will do the same unless they are soldered.

Or get one of these and do a factory job - they're fine if kept coated in silicon grease.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-Way-Pin-6-3 ... 27b717b492

Here's the latest.

When out for a spin tonight, as I thought it was fixed. Started in the button, ran fine, made it about a mile, and was changing down gears towards lights. Died at lights, wouldn't start, and weak turnover. Bumped it, at was running a bit rough. Left it at a mates nearby.

Now, any idea what this issue is? Could it be a dud battery? 12.5V seems very weak. I did have it charging at work for about 4 hours, and the charger didn't say that it was fully charged.

Any help would be great! Thanks guys!

I had the same symptoms as this once, and the stator tested fine. After replacing nearly every electrical component (loom, reg/rec etc) I still had the fault.

I took the engine cover off and removed the stator, there were signs that it could have been the culprit (charred marks on some windings). Replaced with a good one and never had another electrical issue.

I can't understand how it could have been at fault if it tested in spec though....