Nicked crashed 3EN2

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Evilchicken0
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Bike owned: Bimota SB6 Yamaha FZR 3TJ x2
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Re: Nicked crashed 3EN2

Post by Evilchicken0 »

It should be ok - the clocks are the same 3en1 to 3en2
Kenny_Dave
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Bike owned: FZR400 3EN2, FZS600 mk1, RF600
Re: Nicked crashed 3EN2

Post by Kenny_Dave »

Thanks Evil - I found a 3EN2 nose cone on fleabay which has just run out with me winning, so I didn't need it in the end. Need to get the subframe for it and a left hand panel, and a tank lock and I'm pretty much there for parts. Reassembly commences this weekend... although having said that I've still got plenty of jobs first, like painting and tapping.
Last edited by Kenny_Dave on Wed Nov 09, 2011 9:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Evilchicken0
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Re: Nicked crashed 3EN2

Post by Evilchicken0 »

You can use FZR1000 Exup lamps in your top fairing to give you H4 bulbs
Kenny_Dave
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Bike owned: FZR400 3EN2, FZS600 mk1, RF600
Re: Nicked crashed 3EN2

Post by Kenny_Dave »

Hmm, could do. The headlights are pretty decent anyway, at least compared to my Fazer which is rubbish. But as long as it MOTs...

So everything is now disassembled off the old one, so end can re-riveted, holes in downpipes replugged, starter motor cover hole retapped and bodged.

The engine is absolutely disgusting, so I've spent a couple of hours cleaning it. It needs a lot more to *actually* be clean, but it doesn't have any paint on it at all, not even on the oil filter cover. Is this normal? I was intending to paint it, but it's a lot of work and I'm not sure whether I can be bothered. Should I, or does it not matter that much?
Evilchicken0
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Re: Nicked crashed 3EN2

Post by Evilchicken0 »

I don't think the cases were painted in the factory, only the covers.
If the engine's out of the frame then clean it with paraffin and a small paint brush, then wash that off with degreasant. Painting the engine doesn't take that long if you leave the cases on, I've used 5 wheel silver in the past, mask off the carb rubbers and wires then paint areas of the engine with a couple of light coats. When you come run the engine again run it for a short time then before it gets much heat in it stop and allow it to cool. Build the cycle up so you slowly cure the paint. If you do the radiator at the same time (but maybe black paint) you only need to go through this process once.
Kenny_Dave
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Bike owned: FZR400 3EN2, FZS600 mk1, RF600
Re: Nicked crashed 3EN2

Post by Kenny_Dave »

Thanks Evil, I am doing as you've said, getting the bugger clean, but I haven't been able to devote much time to it. This weekend I should get chance.

I've also put the back wheel and forks and stuff on the new frame. One of the forks is a bit off, about 2cm :( The rear sub frame is a bit more off, about 10cm to one side. Is there hope for these, pro fork straighteners for the forks and a big ammer on the sub frame, or just replacement?

It's getting a bit silly now, there's hardly any of the old bike left...

Oh, and if the rear sub frame does need replacing, will a 3TJ fit with my fairings? There's a cheap one on fleabay at the mo.
Evilchicken0
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Re: Nicked crashed 3EN2

Post by Evilchicken0 »

I doubt the 3tj subframe will fit, but when the 3en's come up they're cheap enough. So do the forks

You'll get there just keep plugging away at it
Kenny_Dave
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Re: Nicked crashed 3EN2

Post by Kenny_Dave »

Cheers matey... I'm just replacing both then? And the subframe has to be 3EN, not 1WG?
Evilchicken0
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Re: Nicked crashed 3EN2

Post by Evilchicken0 »

Yes ... the forks need to be 3en2 if possible otherwise you'll need different triple clamps, the 3en2 has 41mm dia forks with 298mm disks. You can't use 3en1 or other 1WG forks as they're 38mm dia and 285mm disks (unless you fit a front end). You could use the foxeye or Fazer wheel / spindle + forks in your clamps though.

It would be better to use the 3en2 subframe because the rear panels will fit and clip into the fuel tanks shroud. if your not so worried about that though you can fit 3en1 subframe and panels.
Kenny_Dave
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Bike owned: FZR400 3EN2, FZS600 mk1, RF600
Re: Nicked crashed 3EN2

Post by Kenny_Dave »

Haven't been here in ages, been a busy boy with work and other stuff. But the girl is running, with the old engine, and the cracked ignitor, impressively. Seems ok, and doesn't leak oil from the chipped area that I've repaired with plastic weld, although I've haven't comp tested her yet*. Thanks for all the advice to this point people.

Still a ton of stuff to do of course, mainly painting and repairing the plastic. Have yet to find front forks or a rear sub frame still, and can't test the front brakes until I get the forks :(

If anyone needs bits, I accidentally bought a pair of 38mm front forks, which seem good, and I have almost all of an engine including radiator, 41mm clips ons, 38mm top yoke, etc. Message me for fair enough prices, don't have space!

*Although I got 80 before shifting her on a very reluctant churn without charge on the battery.

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