what is this and why does it buzz at me?

hardnutdvd · Post by **hardnutdvd** » Wed Jul 06, 2011 11:23 am

i've always used 1st gear for cars and bikes.. and i have bumped plenty over the past 20 years :)

Terri400 · Post by **Terri400** » Wed Jul 06, 2011 12:02 pm

I had a quick read through the replies but didn't see anyone suggest that you clean up all the connections before going for a new battery (if anyone did, sorry). Poor connections/earths are notorious problem areas on older bikes, check it out before purchase of a new battery or solenoid, if you haven't already

Ian

Chrissy_J · Post by **Chrissy_J** » Wed Jul 06, 2011 2:59 pm

I've always found it easier to push the bike while it's in neutral, then jump on, pull in the clutch and select 2nd, then dump the clutch. But that's just me.

Batteries are usually cheaper online but, if you're getting a lead-acid one, you'll need to get acid as well.

thelucky7 · Post by **thelucky7** » Thu Jul 07, 2011 9:22 am

very slight update, got myself to a maplin for multimeter, had to insist 4 times that i didnt need a battery for it, they really wanna sell batteries at that place! shame they dont do bike batteries.

watched a youtube tutorial, still not qquite sure what i am doing
but i will work it out. i will wait for an available amigo before any jump start attempts and will check the connections. thanks again for the help.

thelucky7 · Post by **thelucky7** » Fri Jul 08, 2011 7:30 pm

right i had 2 mins to try out the multimeter, didnt have the keys to the bike so just measured at the battery terminals and got 13.42 volts, what does that mean?

amorti · Post by **amorti** » Fri Jul 08, 2011 7:33 pm

thelucky7 wrote:right i had 2 mins to try out the multimeter, didnt have the keys to the bike so just measured at the battery terminals and got 13.42 volts, what does that mean?

It means you need to do the diagnosis properly and report back. It might show 13.4v, but push the button and it might dip to 9v, which won't do it. You need at least 12v.

thelucky7 · Post by **thelucky7** » Sun Jul 10, 2011 5:42 pm

ok so looks like the battery, under ignition it drops to 5-6V, after charging it again, it did sound like it tried to turn over for a second until it reverted back to buzzing at me again. I would like to check out the reg/rec when i install the new battery so that's next on the list.

battery shopping is a little confusing, the one i took out was an 'exide bike ETX7A-BS 12V7Ah' these don't look readily available any more? looks like the YTX7A-BS is recommended. lots of different prices and makes:

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_246903

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YTX7A-BS-Battery- ... 2563962d11

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Yuasa-YTX7A-BS-Ba ... 4aa84628d3

http://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcy ... prod/47587

http://www.electroquestuk.com/product-i ... 417&page=2

Anyone know the difference?

Post by **oldgreyandslow** » Sun Jul 10, 2011 5:57 pm

The Halfords one fits, I know that much.

Yuasa batteries are good as are varta and you can get one of those from Rick Oliver for £34

http://www.400greybike.com/files/stocklist.doc

thelucky7 · Post by **thelucky7** » Mon Jul 11, 2011 12:51 am

rick oliver lists the ytx7a and ytx9, what is the difference? are they both suitable?

cheapest i can find is:
http://www.thebatteryshop.co.uk/exide-y ... 1008-p.asp

Post by **Cammo** » Mon Jul 11, 2011 12:59 am

Yes.

The 9 has a bigger capacity (fits fine), good upgrade for a road bike.

what is this and why does it buzz at me?

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