having a dream bike of an NC24 is a bad idea if you dont have a massive bank account!! Since your local and Rick's up for it how about we both come over one of the weekends and give you a hand getting it running properly

Neosophist wrote:having a dream bike of an NC24 is a bad idea if you dont have a massive bank account!! Since your local and Rick's up for it how about we both come over one of the weekends and give you a hand getting it running properly

that would be perfect, Just dont know what we would need to make it perfect (i have 2 spare knackered engines we can use for parts if needed (i only bought one, the other came with the bike)

Neosophist wrote:
2. Footman james do laid up insurance for bike that are in 'project' status. Speak to them, there classic bike speciaialists.

They wont insure me because im 23 and they only insure over 25's

Aah

Neosophist wrote:Aah

hopefully they will contact me about this as i emailed into them

I have going to see if i can borrow a compression tester to see if the piston rings have gone

If they have then can i call on your services to help me fix and port the engine :)

I would really advise against doing ANYTHING to the ports unless you really know what your doing, especially as you mentioned you don't have much money.

Changing the way the gasses flow aroud the engine might mean you have to spend more money getting it running properly afterwards. Ideally you'd want dyno-time before and after, plus if it goes wrong it isn't something that is easily changed.

Instead i'd focus on getting the engine to standard trim and going from there. With standard trim you'll be able to set it up to original specs and it should run somewhat right with less fettling.

A healthy standard NC24 engine should make circa 60bhp.

Compression test it first and see what values you get.

Low compression could be down to a number of things, you'll have to take the engine apart to find out why though

i checked the oil when i bought this engine and had fitted it to the bike.

The oil was on MAX but i had checked it when the bike was on the sidestand.

I just drained loads of oil and restarted filling and dipping until it was reading 3/4 full on a vertically stood bike.

Since then its run a lot lot less smokey which is good.

I will send her in for a MOT once i have the body work polished and fitted and just hope the smokey problem was down to the oil slightly over filled (by less than half a litre)

Next i will need to clean the carbs as the garage smells of fuel when its stood up over night (no tank on atm so its not the tap leaking)

Also will need help setting the idle screw as when cold its 900rpm and when warm it climbs to 2000rpm (was 3000rpm when it first did it but i turned the screw down a bit)

They do vary a bit, which is why there adjustable.

Best to set the idle when its fully warm.. when it is cold it shouldn't stall just idle too low...

Neosophist wrote:They do vary a bit, which is why there adjustable.

Best to set the idle when its fully warm.. when it is cold it shouldn't stall just idle too low...

Rightio, Will set that.

Think ill have to clean them anyway as its loosing the fuel and the choke dont work (it activated but either stalls it or just dont work at all)