Why dont you blueprint the rods and pistons etc so they are all identical ?

That is nice to do if you have the cash and want the absolute most out of an engine. If you are just building a daily driver, I would match what I have and run it.

Old Painless wrote:Why dont you blueprint the rods and pistons etc so they are all identical ?

this would be a lovely idea but i've never built a motor before so this is a testbed to see if me and stu can accually do it so i don't want to spend £100's on lightened this and blueprinting that only to find out i can't do the timing and blow the motor up on the first run.

i have already plans for another motor once we get this running but as steve says these are daily drivers, i don't need/want 69bhp and 1000mile rebuilds so tuning will be at a minimum and matching weighted items from the selection i have is the most i'll be doing.

Good luck Rhory

Going through the same process at the moment - though mine was not out of choice. Watching with interest

NGneer

hi rhory looking good i,m nearly at the same stage as you (rebuilding my engine too).


what size is the bolt on the hub puller anyone ???


keep it going lads

(not seen stu in years)

It is an M20 with 1.5 thread pitch. I have one, but a search for "alternator" and "bolt" on this site gave me the answer. The search also told me you can get one from Rick Oliver for about 5 pounds.

Must be an update due Royster.
I need some inspiration pall!

Cool :-)

You won't blow it up, have some faith :D

There easier to time having cam gear too than a pita chain to tension / line up.

Do you have plastigauge handy!? it's a must for measuring clearances, if things are worn badly you might need different shells than the haynes reccomends, i'm sure it details how to measure things with plastigauge anyway?

Some things I do when rebuilding engines that i've learned from past experenices.

* blow all the oil paths out with compressed air, especially the tiny holes for cam / top end lubrication.
* use a smear of moly grease or 3 in 1 oil on cam bearing surfaces when installing cams, top end lubrication will be minimal on initial fire up (when the choke comes on and it fires LEAVE it as 4000rpm for a minute or two, the increased oil pressure will get plenty of oil upto the top end!)

* Parrafin guns are your friend for cleaning out the inside of an engine, especially if your not taking it anywhere to have it cleaned, a fine mist will clean brilliantly and makes the parrafin last ages!

* after installing critical items either have a friend re-check or use the 'cup of tea method' go make a brew and after drinking re-check.. you must allow time to pass before re-checking so your brain is fresh. Better to check twice than to blow it up once.

*Lapping the valves in will change all of the clearances, shims on hand!

You'll get it running in no time! :)

Hey royster81 have you made any more progress with the motor, it's been a while, don't keep us is suspense

Wakey wakey Rhory.