When you say "the chain spins" I assume you mean the rear wheel spins.

So when the rear wheel is off the ground, the bike is in 1st gear and the lever is pulled in, the wheel spins. That is normal. It's a multi-plate wet clutch, the plates are going be in some sort of contact with each other, so of course there will be power transmitted to the rear wheel, albeit a tiny amount.

You don't know this when the wheel is in contact with the ground because it has 160kg of weight on the wheel, which is a far cry from the couple of kg of mass when the wheel is off the ground.

Unless the bike is stalling when the wheel is on the ground and the lever is held in, there is nothing to worry about, it's completely normal.

hmm okay. so its normal even when i give throttle the wheel spins faster and faster with the clutch lever pulled all the way in, while its on the stand?

xivlia wrote:hmm okay. so its normal even when i give throttle the wheel spins faster and faster with the clutch lever pulled all the way in, while its on the stand?

You are increasing the revs so the drag will increase too hence the wheel spin faster.

Put the rear brake on and see if the bike stalls or stumbles, if it does then you have too much drag and a badly adjusted clutch.

The NC30 clutch seems to drag a lot but as long as your bike isn't stalling with the rear brake on it should be ok.

I had mine in 6th with the real wheel off the ground, clutch lever pulled right in and the throttle completely closed and the rear wheel was spinning at an indicated 20km/h.

When I revved it, the speedo went up as well, just like if I were riding it.. But I can have the lever right in and put my foot on the brake and the bike behaves normally..

Clutch drag is perfectly normal, nothing to worry about.

okay. so from the day i got this bike. the rear master cylinder is stiff...i cannot press down into the peg properly...the brake still works..but the brake light wont come on as the peg isnt going down enough to trigger the switch...is there anyway of sorting this out? should i disassemble the master cylinder? or get a mechanic to do it for me?

HI

I had similar after my bike had stood for 7 years!!

the travel on the lever was very little, however the rear brake functioned, but not very well compared to how I remember it used to work (not the best in the world at best of time) it passed an MOT, however I decided to strip down the braking system and found that one of the slave cylinders had siezed up, strip down, clean up and rebuild and she was back to her old self.

hope this helps a bit
Regards
Neil B

This job can be pretty easy as it is only a small sub system. You need a Haynes manual to help you along most of all. Don't be afraid to have a go, the hardest thing is getting all the air out at the end.
Buy a seal kit and replace them as well as cleaning up the old pistons with some wire wool unless you replace the pistons. The brake light switch is attached to the lever at the back of the foot peg, you can adjust it so that it comes on when you press the pedal by moving the screw downwards.

Hope this helps.

xivlia wrote:okay. so from the day i got this bike. the rear master cylinder is stiff...i cannot press down into the peg properly...the brake still works..but the brake light wont come on as the peg isnt going down enough to trigger the switch...is there anyway of sorting this out? should i disassemble the master cylinder? or get a mechanic to do it for me?

You'll see that the swtich has a threaded section, adjust this...

CMSMJ1 wrote:

xivlia wrote:okay. so from the day i got this bike. the rear master cylinder is stiff...i cannot press down into the peg properly...the brake still works..but the brake light wont come on as the peg isnt going down enough to trigger the switch...is there anyway of sorting this out? should i disassemble the master cylinder? or get a mechanic to do it for me?

You'll see that the swtich has a threaded section, adjust this...

Exactly.

If the brake works then your switch is the problem, you unscrew the switch to make it come on with less pedal travel.

Buy a haynes manual for the bike, many Halfords stock them.

ahhh okay. il try and adjust the threading part. thanks guys. il also get the lever fixed though because it really feels like its not even going down...