I was either going to bribe a mate to make one, or simply use one of the sleeves from inside an existing pull arm and cut it down. They are 105mm and the rod ends are 14mm wide each. Lopping 28mm off an existing sleeve should be pretty easy. They are pretty robust items and already have the right inner diameter.

We'll see.

Yeah that makes sense, though I think the sleeve that is in the pull rod is toughened steel, so may be hard to cut clean and neat!

Have you got the internal diameter of your rose joints, are they a snug fit on the bolt that goes through them?

the ones I am looking at say they are M10 but I cant figure out if that means the rose joint eye is M10 or the male thread into the turnbuckle is M10, or if both are M10. hes a link to what I am looking at.

http://www.mcgillmotorsport.com/m10-x-1 ... rmance-93/

They are a snug fit. The M10 rod end is M10 thread as well as an inner diameter suitable for an M10 bolt. They fit perfectly.

I got my stuff from McGill as well. Here are the part numbers I used:

2 x XMRM10 = £16.66
2 x XMLM10 = £16.66
2 x TURN-M10-70 = £8.90
2 x JNRM10 = £0.66
2 x JNLM10 = £0.66

You can't order the half nuts separately on their web site so if you want less than a box of ten of each, email Lee on contact@mcgillmotorsport.com with the part numbers and he'll sort you out. Their service was nothing short of excellent. The product arrived in Melbourne from Scotland in less than a week.

You may want to order 4 each of the half-nuts rather than 2 each - so you can have one nut locking onto the other. I'll likely be using spring washers to hold the nuts firm, but only time will tell how things stand up on a track.

If you are considering these for road use then I'll be checking them every now and then to see how they are surviving - they are really well made and quality units for sure, but not sure if they would take regular road use. A local suspension guy here said the rod ends were a good way to find the length (meaning: ride height) you need then get something made of "real metal".

It'll be for track only, but I take your point about longevity of use becoming a concern, I have a drilled and modded dog bone with an aprillia rs250 shock that's been revalved. It just catches the front of the swing arm so I'm guessing I was a mm or two out when I redrilled the dog bone, causing it to rub.

The shock is hard to fit as the top shock mount does not want to line up and you have to put quite a bit of force on it to get it to a point where you can locate the top shock mount bolt.

I have a spare dog bone so may weld and re drill that a 2mm longer so the shock will clear the swing arm!

Just like the bling/trick factor of an adjustable ride height dog bone set up

StrayAlien wrote:The nasty pictures above are actually for the *replacement* carbs that I bought.

But in terms of the sonically cleaned ones:

He used a citric acid based solution that was the colour of dark tea (no milk!). He said it costs him like $800 for about 10 liters of the stuff.

The carbs were dissassembled but I think the solution and the sonic intensity must have been very aggressive - it took the plating off some bits as well.

Within a week they had started to corrode with powdery puffy nodules all over so I called him and he said he forgot to 'oil' them - said he normally used WD40 or something similar to spray them after blowing out passages with compressed air and drying.

I did same and then re-assembled them. But, while they were sitting for a month or so stuff just seezed up. The pilot jets are just locked in and I have already destroyed one trying to get it out - hence needing new carbs.

They are seized enough that trying to turn the tops of the pilots just mangles them. I have dremelled new grooves, and then they just break as well.

Is there a magic way to get seized (brass) jets out of a carb?

AHHHHHHH
just started reading your very good thread with interest
got to this part and it sort of answers a problem i had after having my carbs sonically cleaned, they were sat for a couple months before fitting as i didnt want to leave with stale fuel in after fitting
when i did refit i had trouble with choke plungers seizing and generally not running right . removed them and drained of fuel sorted plungers and they are fine
so they prob had other parts suffering inside but i suppose having fuel inside them for a few days helped?
anyway back to your thread

Can't see you needing the steering damper, I haven't used one on my NC30 and we race on the bumpiest track in the world, morgan park. I personally prefer the feel without one, but it is very personal.

Sorry guys, I missed these posts.

Factorypilot, I am glad you managed to get things sorted with the carbs - I managed to get things cleaned and moving but it was getting the pilot and main out that gave me issues - they were stuck fast.

eddy: re the damper, I guess we'll see. I've got one on my 999 and don't actually notice it. But, this being experimental science I'll give it a go to find out how it feels on a track. If it sux, or gets in the way .. off it comes. But the rear end of the bike will be quite high, so I am interested to do a with/without test.

Talking of 999's, one reason for slow progress here was prep on other bikes for a 9 day ride around Tasmania. But after three days of 'holiday' my starter sprag ate itself ... so another reason for slow progress. The holiday was cut to three days and I brought the bike home to start tearing it down. At this house 'road beats track' so the road bikes always get priority'. Anyways, check this out .. you can almost hear the cash register going ching-ching:





But ... speaking of NC30s ....

This sux also :



The steering lock tabs on the triple clamps don't actually stop the 'bars from smacking into stuff. Nice one. In the crash, they turned enough to dent the tank and the frame. Yeah, nice one.

So ... :



front off and time to attack this sorry little fellow:





and get a bolt in there to reduce the lock:



and secure it at the back:



Now the bars don't smack anything so *hopefully* that will mean no more handlebar shaped dents in the tank and frame.

Also ... with the RO aluminium subframe the rear upper seat mounting holes seemed never to line up and getting the seat unit on was a struggle. This was the cause .. the seat has these little things under it that seem not to quite fit:



Note the wear on them:



And I reckon the (erm) titties can go too. They may have served a purpose with the real subframe on but no longer. So .. enter Dremel bits:





and we get to this:



and a quick test fitment of the seat puts the hole in the right place (crap photo though):

oh, and 28hodge, re the drilled out and repositioned hole pull arm thing, I thought it worth lining up a couple of pull arms along with the adjustable one to see if the repositioned hole thing could be replicated with the adjustable pull arms I have:

Below is a pic of stock pull arm next to drilled pull arm with adjustable thingy next to it. The wide angle of the camera distorts things, but you get the idea:



nope. The adjustable pull arm tube I have is just slightly too long to replicate either 8mm shorter than stock or just stock.

So .. if you wanted to replicate stock or the the 8mm redrilled pull arm with an adjustable setup, you'll need a slightly shorter connecting tube. McGill will likely be able to supply.