alexwitham wrote:Any ideas as to the diameter of the hose?

the breather spiggot is 6mm dia but its a little loose, id go for the 5mm hose brethrin

Did you ever get it running properly?

Last time I saw you it was bogging really bad in the mid-range?

I'm needing to take mine to the dyno now as it's set-up as it's ever going to be.

Starts first press of the button, idles like a swiss watch and pulls clean from idle to the red-line through all the gears.

Be nice to see how much power its' making and where I can take it next.

Will dyno it after Motegi GP next week, but next mods are going to be Rear shock and some new front forks.

Neosophist wrote:Did you ever get it running properly?

Last time I saw you it was bogging really bad in the mid-range?

I'm needing to take mine to the dyno now as it's set-up as it's ever going to be.

Starts first press of the button, idles like a swiss watch and pulls clean from idle to the red-line through all the gears.

Be nice to see how much power its' making and where I can take it next.

Will dyno it after Motegi GP next week, but next mods are going to be Rear shock and some new front forks.

i did a bit of work after the dyno new C&S did have a 14T sprocket but swapped back to a 15 as i didnt like the high revs when travelling on the MWay,

carbs have been on and off and i did get the flat spot minimised a few weeks back, took out a washer and stuck some RickO needles in, ive removed a further washer to try that but i think im going to put one back as it feels its a little worse and C3 is idling funny, also have NC24 slides to fire in that last time i couldnt put in as the diaphram had shrunk.

Rick, where did you get your heel guard from?
I'm looking for one for mine..........

vfrderek wrote:Rick, where did you get your heel guard from?
I'm looking for one for mine..........

Tyga

Just read through this - it's epic what you've done so far... Wish I had the skills to do similar to my RVF... All I'm capable of is purely cosmetic stuff, and even then it boils down literally to just changing things that require unscrewing, and screwing back on lol. Well done, cracking job.

Thanks Em, the works still on going but mechanically and cosmetically underneath the tatty silver fibre glass panels is a rust free clean and restored NC30, which is the important bit to me, i know every inch, ive worked on every part, and when i ride it it gives me that extra confidence knowing ive sorted it for another 20-30 years.

i have a 1966 bsa to do this all too but thats going to cost a lot more for less work lol!

PS

you can do anything you want to do to a bike you just need to try and apply yourself and learn new things.
once its learnt youll soon become skilled enough to say its a piece of piss

Mmm, I fear mine is going to be the opposite - nice on the outside, bloody awful on the inside! Even the subframe is so rusty... But I like your advice - thank you - I do really want to be able to do these things so perhaps I'll start off easy and see where I get to :-)

It's easier than it looks, I changed one the other week and was a lot easier than I thought it would be.... quick wire brush and a spray with silver Hammerite...

[url][/url]

Get stuck in, any probs you know where to come

Titanium & NC24 goodness ahead,

fitted my NC24 slides, drilled the hole to 2.5mm to match the NC30 ones, whacked my Rick O needles in and put 1 0.5mm shim in, having a idle problem on Cylinder 3 so i hope the 0.5mm will lift the needles enough to make it idle better,



Nc30 slides 53mm
nc 24 slides 55mm & to the bottom of the curve 53mm

will see what difference these make to my flat spot, and hopefully suring cylinder 3 idle issue we shall see!

the rear slides in the pic are the NC24 and the fronts are NC30 in that pic,


Titanium Goodness courtesy of our very own Kayla / Projection Componants, look the fricking nuts dont they