rgvsp wrote:I believe this what they refer to as a "problem". I wasn't getting a spark on any of the cylinders and traced it back to here.

To stop the wires waggling around & breaking off from the ignition trigger/pick-up in the L/H engine cover, I've Zip-Ty'ed the wires from the trigger to the rear of the starter motor to hopefully prevent that happening to mine!

Nothing very sexy here. I happened to track down the kit water inlet. It routes the coolant hoses to clear the kit exhaust system. Kind of a clunky design with the 90 degree elbow.
kit


stock

Long overdue update. For months I was suffering from high idle on my SP carbs that I just could not figure out. Since I was not happy with the condition of the wires on the TPS I tracked down a second set to see if my results would be different. It ran better but it would idle very high and the throttle response was not correct.



I finally figured out the signal discs had subtle differences. This is interesting because I remember reading about it in a post but kind of forgot about it because it was not listed as being different in the SP parts manual.

Now here is my new issue with the SP signal disc installed. Now it doesn't want to start without starter fluid help and I get some backfiring when it does start and it doesn't want to run for long. I am running the SP CDI ,wiring loom and SP intake cam. What am I missing in the puzzle?

Hi mate, have you moved the TPS sensor at all?
Have you taken any measurements from the tps sensor using a multimeter.
I read a very interesting post on the banditalley site regarding setting the tps on the bandit 12, there were formula for working out the correct ohm readings for setting and incorrectly set tps gave similar problems to yours.

You know on this one I haven't. What I did is mark it's outline before I took it off. The carbs seemed to be 100 percent original. Do you happen to have a link to the discussion you were talking about?

TPS or not, there is a big change since I've changed the signal disc.

There are a few so i will post when i get chance.
(1) http://forums.banditalley.net/index.php?topic=3447.0

I'm getting there finally. I followed the steps to set the TPS; it was way out of wack. I finally got the carbs running well enough to do a carb balance and that also helped quite a bit. It now has a nice steady idle.

Now the bad stuff. Now it quits after I give it throttle. I've got the carbs off and checking the float heights again, looks like a couple are slightly off. Also replacing the pilots with new ones so I can cross those off my list as a problem.

Hopefully a video of a well running GK76 in the not too distant future.

After over a year and basically a second tear down this is the only outward appearance the bike is any different. It includes an intake cam, timing rotor and CDI from an SP2. Picked up the SP harness separately out of Japan. I'm still missing the SP forks that will make it a complete copy of an SP2.



But it is finally running and running quite nicely. The kit exhaust with the old aluminum muffler sounds great. It is finally time to move on and get this thing painted. I'm leaning towards the Lucky Strike look from the Suzuka 8 hours bikes from back in the early 90's.

Great to hear you are finally getting there mate.
I like the 76a in Lucky Strike, also like the Setto GP colours from the 89 ttf3 bike.
If you look in the ttf3 post in the Honda section there are a few Suzuki pictures that may give you an idea.

I'll take a look!

I finally got around to playing with the kit water inlet. It seems really odd to me with its' 90 degree bend. It brings the hose in from the opposite side to keep it away from the headers. As far as i can tell the hose has to run outside of the frame. The 90 degree bend almost dictates this. It is exaggerated in the pictures, it can follow the bend of the frame more closely. it is still out there though and in racing, it would seem that it would be vulnerable in a crash. Maybe there was a kit hose that you were supposed to use, I'm just using a standard one.







I've also been playing around with the kit lower radiator but am totally baffled on where the hoses are supposed to run for it.