Yes the crank cases are common to all 3 engines so the front sprocket should be in the same place.

The right, near side or side stand side top right engine mount need to be moddified - if you look on the 3TJ the engine mounts directly onto the frame



You need to cut the frame back by the thickness of the new mounting plate to get the engine mounting square in the frame. The left side has spacers in, so you replace them with the new mounting plate.





you then turn the radiator hose upside down so it doesn't go between the mounts - these pics are of the 3TJ engine

wow thank you! this write-up has made this look so simple! i can't wait to get my own started and finished.

with this much help i can't see how this would cause to much trouble.

slowsport wrote:wow thank you! this write-up has made this look so simple! i can't wait to get my own started and finished.

with this much help i can't see how this would cause to much trouble.

<cough>airbox</cough>

Chicken- you don't replace the spacers with the engine plates, just use them as you would on a standard 3TJ It's only the left side that causes problems.

Not sure I understand.

If the if the spacers are for example 6mm thick and the plate is also 6mm ... then shirley the plate replaces the spacers. If the spacers are 10mm and the spacers 6mm then you replace the spacers with the plate and 4mm spacers .... I think ?

Evilchicken0 wrote:Not sure I understand.

If the if the spacers are for example 6mm thick and the plate is also 6mm ... then shirley the plate replaces the spacers. If the spacers are 10mm and the spacers 6mm then you replace the spacers with the plate and 4mm spacers .... I think ?

The engine plates are 5mm thick and the 4JH/3TJ engine mounts are offset 5mm- the right side engine plate just makes up the 5mm that the mounts are shifted to the left, which is why you need to remove the 10mm total excess from the left side of the 4JH/4TV engine and 3TJ frame It's alot easier to see in practice than describe

Kayla850 wrote:<cough>airbox</cough>

lol ok well i will prepare for that and perhaps dyno time for the jetting.

Kayla: you mentioned i need to trim 10mm but if i want to use countersunk bolts will it be possible to only trim 5mm?

slowsport wrote:

Kayla850 wrote:<cough>airbox</cough>

lol ok well i will prepare for that and perhaps dyno time for the jetting.

Kayla: you mentioned i need to trim 10mm but if i want to use countersunk bolts will it be possible to only trim 5mm?

If you use countersunk bolts you only need to trim the frame, not the engine. I used stainless button heads and needed to remove the thickness of the head (5mm) from the engine.

Kayla850 wrote:

slowsport wrote:

Kayla850 wrote:<cough>airbox</cough>

lol ok well i will prepare for that and perhaps dyno time for the jetting.

Kayla: you mentioned i need to trim 10mm but if i want to use countersunk bolts will it be possible to only trim 5mm?

If you use countersunk bolts you only need to trim the frame, not the engine. I used stainless button heads and needed to remove the thickness of the head (5mm) from the engine.

Kind of what I said / meant.
On the Left side where the frame mounts directly with the head you need to remove the thickness of the plate ... or the plate and bolt heads combined if you don't use countersunk bolts.

personally I'd go with countersunk because I'd want to keep as much of the frame as possible. You could also make up pieces to fill the frame web, weld them in, and drill new holes. I've seen that done.

Evilchicken0 wrote:personally I'd go with countersunk because I'd want to keep as much of the frame as possible. You could also make up pieces to fill the frame web, weld them in, and drill new holes. I've seen that done.

If you look at the left side of the frame, there's 5mm there itching to be removed You just cut the left side mounts flush with the casting. You could remove 5mm from just the engine and use countersunk bolts but it's a lot simpler and neater to trim the frame.

You could discuss the hows and whys of the conversion forever, but the bottom line is you need to remove at least the thickness of the mounting plates from either the engine or frame if you want the engine to go in square. You could bugger about with the rear mounts but then the front sprocket would be out of line. I personally don't think countersunk Ti bolts should be used to hold an engine in place.

hi there what model fzr 600 engine do i need to fit in my fzr 400 3tj cheers adam.