I believe Rick O does a Valve clearance guide, does anyone have a copy?

Rick has a template for the shims - you don't really need one. It becomes very second nature to pick your shim

Ask a silly question (as usual), but is it strictly necessary to have the carbs off to get at the valves, or do they restrict access to the cam cover bolts and the like? I got new cover gaskets when I ordered all the carb bits, but in theory I don't need to do the valve clearances for about another 3500kms, which as the rate I've been going will be about a year. However, as I'll have the carbs off to swap them for the set I'm refurbing, it would seem a little silly not to do both at the same time if they really do need to be off. I figure with nice new carb rubbers they'll be easier to put back on, and sod's law says the new ones will go hard over the next year and it'll be a pain to get them back on if I wait....

Yes carbs off, you may have access to the shims with the carbs still in place but trust me you need all the space you can to do that front head if the engine is still in the bike. I know its a bit OTT but i remove everything, top rad, rubber flaps, carbs, wiring loom moved out the way as much as poss.

So I'm currently doing the valve clearances on my NC30 (quite nice compared to my NC23 where you have to remove the camshafts...) but now I have a problem: I want to move the shims around since some that are going out of one valve fit is what I want on another -- but since I need to rotate the engine between cylinders I have to either play one of these games where you move squares around with one empty space free (which would make the whole thing take way longer) or just take the shims out and let the rocker push down on the valve spring without a shim until I get the other one out. Does it hurt anything to rotate the engine once or twice without shims?

Also, I didn't take my carbs off, it doesn't seem like it would buy much for front cylinder access. It's a bit tight to get in there from the front, but not too bad.

not used my rvf400 in a while due to being past the valve clearence schedule. still got the hotcams shim kit for the yzf750 which are 7.48mm. pretty sure the nc35 uses the same shims. can someone confirm, cheers.

Micro Monkey wrote:not used my rvf400 in a while due to being past the valve clearence schedule. still got the hotcams shim kit for the yzf750 which are 7.48mm. pretty sure the nc35 uses the same shims. can someone confirm, cheers.

Assuming the '35 is the same as a '30 then yes 7.48

Pip

cheers pip, now some nice weather for me to do it.

adjust the valves and after the bike warms up sounding a bit above that will.
excessive play?

Random retard question.... there's not half a gallon of oil lurking behind the timing cover waiting to piss out everywhere is there? When I did the water pump the Haynes suggested 'some residual oil', which on reflection should be written 'enough oil to form a small lake of your friend's driveway and your boots'... lol