NC30 carby jetting - DIY guide
Forum rules
Please can you post items for sale or wanted in the correct For Sale section. Items / bikes for sale here will be removed without warning. Reasons for this are in the FAQ. Thanks
Please can you post items for sale or wanted in the correct For Sale section. Items / bikes for sale here will be removed without warning. Reasons for this are in the FAQ. Thanks
-
- Settled in member
- Posts: 155
- Joined: Sat Dec 20, 2008 6:20 am
- Bike owned: Everything 90's
- Location: Hamamatsu
Re: NC30 carby jetting - DIY guide
Please, can anyone tell me how to get the needles out of the diaphragm on the NC35... I don't understand the guide when it says, use your phillips screwdriver to unscrew the needle retainer. I have looked as hard as I can down that tiny hole in the middle and can not see a screw. It's truly doing my head in.
- CMSMJ1
- Moderators
- Posts: 7161
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 9:42 am
- Bike owned: NC30-No9
- Location: Chesterfield, United Kingdom
Re: NC30 carby jetting - DIY guide
stick a screwdriver in there and turn..it comes out on half a turn IIRC
IMPERATOR REX ANGLORUM
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
-
- Settled in member
- Posts: 155
- Joined: Sat Dec 20, 2008 6:20 am
- Bike owned: Everything 90's
- Location: Hamamatsu
Re: NC30 carby jetting - DIY guide
In case anyone has the same frustration again... to clarify- with the NC35 needles you have to push down hard on the tip and it will pop out the back of the diaphragm. There is no screw down there. Just seems a little dodgy because the needles are probably quite delicate.
- CMSMJ1
- Moderators
- Posts: 7161
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 9:42 am
- Bike owned: NC30-No9
- Location: Chesterfield, United Kingdom
Re: NC30 carby jetting - DIY guide
What he said...ignore me, I was talking bollocks! 

IMPERATOR REX ANGLORUM
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
- Cammo
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 4505
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 12:35 am
- Bike owned: NC30
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
Re: NC30 carby jetting - DIY guide
Apologies, that is for nc30 carbs only.trademe900 wrote:I don't understand the guide when it says, use your phillips screwdriver to unscrew the needle retainer. I have looked as hard as I can down that tiny hole in the middle and can not see a screw. It's truly doing my head in.
Glad you got them out in the end, the haynes manual explains the procedure for rvf carbs...

"It's just a ride" Bill Hicks
-
- Settled in member
- Posts: 37
- Joined: Tue Apr 28, 2009 7:12 am
- Location: Barry, outside Cardiff
Re: NC30 carby jetting - DIY guide
Great guide, i will be following it when i set about rebuilding my carbs, however, a couple of questions forst:
I have a 1989 'k' import nc30 with a Viper endcan, the bike has done 4500 miles in 10 years, had a restrictor kit fitted for the last year (400 odd miles use previous owner) and is suffering a bit with stalling, high idling, power delay etc. Runs smooth when on a run, though it did die on me last week.
Anyhoo, i have all new OE clutch parts on the way, clutch and choke cables too, so i thought while im at it i will do the carbs too.
So, i am compiling a list of parts i will then buy, so far i have:
main jets 118f/120r
float chamber gaskets
probably emulsion tubes
probably needles
0.5m washers
probably OE throttle cables
Questions are, what other bit are recommended while i have it opened up, what o-rings will i need and for where, price wise what is my best option for sourcing parts and to save trawling all 15 pages (evil eye off mrs for being online again) what part numbers am i looking at ?
Thanks for your time :)
I have a 1989 'k' import nc30 with a Viper endcan, the bike has done 4500 miles in 10 years, had a restrictor kit fitted for the last year (400 odd miles use previous owner) and is suffering a bit with stalling, high idling, power delay etc. Runs smooth when on a run, though it did die on me last week.
Anyhoo, i have all new OE clutch parts on the way, clutch and choke cables too, so i thought while im at it i will do the carbs too.
So, i am compiling a list of parts i will then buy, so far i have:
main jets 118f/120r
float chamber gaskets
probably emulsion tubes
probably needles
0.5m washers
probably OE throttle cables
Questions are, what other bit are recommended while i have it opened up, what o-rings will i need and for where, price wise what is my best option for sourcing parts and to save trawling all 15 pages (evil eye off mrs for being online again) what part numbers am i looking at ?
Thanks for your time :)
-
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 690
- Joined: Thu Aug 26, 2010 11:43 pm
- Bike owned: '89 NC30 Racebike #24
- Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Re: NC30 carby jetting - DIY guide
Ran through this on my 89 nc30 today and just wanted to add a big thanks to Cammo. Went super smoothly and highlighted a load of issues from previous owners tinkering!
The only thing I noticed was where the 2 front carbs join, there is a pipe (possibly a T joint?) and 2 rubber grommet/washers. Same on the rear carbs. Both of these grommets had split all the way through so they were really loose. I even found a bit of insulting tape half stuck to one like someone had attempted to bodge it!
Should I be worried and looking to replace these?
Cheers
Luke
The only thing I noticed was where the 2 front carbs join, there is a pipe (possibly a T joint?) and 2 rubber grommet/washers. Same on the rear carbs. Both of these grommets had split all the way through so they were really loose. I even found a bit of insulting tape half stuck to one like someone had attempted to bodge it!
Should I be worried and looking to replace these?
Cheers
Luke
- Cammo
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 4505
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 12:35 am
- Bike owned: NC30
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
Re: NC30 carby jetting - DIY guide
Glad it all went smoothly Luke, it's pretty common to find a previous owner's mistakes lurking somewhere in there.
It's no big deal if air leaks are present in my opinion. Some will say that unfiltered air is no good for the slides, but in reality the sub-air filter material isn't terribly effective at removing small particles anyway.
Those plastic rings just help to seal the pipes from air leaks. The pipes are for the air intake/exhaust from the movement of the carb slides. They run to the sub-air filter at the back of the airbox base which filters the air.lukemillar wrote:Should I be worried and looking to replace these?
It's no big deal if air leaks are present in my opinion. Some will say that unfiltered air is no good for the slides, but in reality the sub-air filter material isn't terribly effective at removing small particles anyway.
"It's just a ride" Bill Hicks
-
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 690
- Joined: Thu Aug 26, 2010 11:43 pm
- Bike owned: '89 NC30 Racebike #24
- Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Re: NC30 carby jetting - DIY guide
Thank Cammo - Cool, I won't worry about it then!Cammo wrote:Glad it all went smoothly Luke, it's pretty common to find a previous owner's mistakes lurking somewhere in there.
- Man_Named_Dave
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 359
- Joined: Mon Apr 26, 2010 5:41 pm
- Bike owned: NC30(K)
- Location: Nairn, Highlands
Re: NC30 carby jetting - DIY guide
Cammo,
I've recently been feeling that the bike's been pulling a little less than optimally, ie not as smooth as I would like. The 33bhp washers would be the most obvious contributor, along with an old vacuum hose (should be addressed as I fitted a Rick-O one yesterday).
Is there a possibility that the reduced air intake would necessitate an adjustment to the pilot screw settings, which are currently set as per your guide? Bearing in mind that I'm running either 110/112s all round.
I've recently been feeling that the bike's been pulling a little less than optimally, ie not as smooth as I would like. The 33bhp washers would be the most obvious contributor, along with an old vacuum hose (should be addressed as I fitted a Rick-O one yesterday).
Is there a possibility that the reduced air intake would necessitate an adjustment to the pilot screw settings, which are currently set as per your guide? Bearing in mind that I'm running either 110/112s all round.