Won't start

[Mang]

It's weird really I just can stand things not being right. This is the antithesis of the rest of my life but in the workshop I like to get it right. Remember though I have been on this restoration for about 15 months!

[willandrip]

Dont run it at all until you have mineral in then take it straight out an ride it briskly.
You only hve a brief window of perhaps 100 miles max to bed the piston rings to the cylinders.
Semi or fully wont cut it here FULLSTOP>
You are aiming for the combustion gasses to get behind the piston rings and force them into the bore taking out all the microscopic ridges and furrows as they bed. 9k plus revs under load is needed to do this.

[Maelstrom]

to what Willandrip said.
If you have a fine cross hatch you will have to give it the beans to bed the rings in.
All that toss about gently running in was when they used to hone their Austin A40s with a house brick.

[Hogdigerdy Dog]

^^^^^ what bill said
although it might seem a bit savage to take a new or re-built motor and cane it, there are quite a few who recomend this as the best way to run in a modern ish engine, have a look at the link below

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

usual disclaimer if it all goes pete tong

[willandrip]

Spot on link.Hodgydog I have been looking for that to include.
Blair;The old way of nursing an engine was for poor materials,inaccurate machining tolerances,plain old oils but mostly shell bearings and dull old tooling.
Old brickbats are excellent for honing machettes by the way.
You must use a mineral because a fully synthetic will create a barrier between the surfaces and you cannot tell how much is mineral and how much is synth with a semi oil,although I suspect most semi oils only see a few drops of synth additives to get past the trades descriptions acts.and hence get more money out of your pocket and into theirs.

When 2 Strokes were in their heyday and proper GP bikes went ring ding ding;the engine builder would want to know how much practice or faffing about the engine was going to do before it was put on a grid to race flat out from the flag dropping;he bored AND honed the barrel accordingly.Mick Burns now Diamond Racing; (Chris & Joes' dad) had this down to absolute perfection.

Yes Mang,rebuilds done properly cost loads of money but are often better than the original when it was new.

[Mang]

So I spent time putting on the repaired plastics and checking for fit. This took me most of the day bending bits and glueing bits etc . I also removed all the olds decals and crap.

Everything fits and is now off the bike and being rubbed down. I wish I had an original tailpiece as the fibre glass repro one is a bastard to fit and I know I will end up scratching the darn thing when I come to putting it on.

Re the debate on the oil; I have dropped and disposed of the old stuff and am wondering what mineral oil to use recommendations please

Who do we use for decals???????????

[willandrip]

The oil is sacrificial Mang,its only got to do between 100/500 miles max then drain + filter. Any 15/40 or 20/50 (its red hot out ) will do the job.

We have a decal maker in the ranks ;
Mark's Vinyl;if he is still about.
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=30631&start=10.

Hope you took pics and measurements before stripping.

Kayla might still have a seat fairing;only a guess,I dont do 3TJ, but she is having a clearout of surplus panels .

[Mang]

Sleeve details as requested.

The cost of the sleeves is

$82.50 each.

item number is-

YA5057

company is-

Los Angeles Sleeve Co., Inc.

(562) 945-7578 XT 223


contact is

monyak@lasleeve.com




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S

[Wraith]

The longer running in period when new is for the gearbox not the bores.

[willandrip]

Cheers Mang;will pass that on.