I reckon the gear on that bike would give many pucker race bikes a wake up Martin!

Wicked bike!!

Super-trick! Time and money well spent me thinks. Eagerly awaiting the dyno results

Spike16 wrote:well done dude! only question what is the HRC res bottle on the front subframe for? uv already got a rad overflow one and crank breather bottle

That'd be the fuel breather overflow I'd reckon.

superlite wrote:Super-trick! Time and money well spent me thinks. Eagerly awaiting the dyno results

Spike16 wrote:well done dude! only question what is the HRC res bottle on the front subframe for? uv already got a rad overflow one and crank breather bottle

That'd be the fuel breather overflow I'd reckon.

Correct, gold star for you

never seen so many res bottle lol, how much more have you got to do to get it done?

You've not seen the HRC manual then There's not a lot more to do to get it finished but the impending wedding means It's going to take longer to get the money together to finish it than it once would have. I'm in no hurry though, I'm rather enjoying the "journey"

tbf I havent, whats left to do? u got all the bodywork sorted?

Martin wrote:
Anyway, all that really needs to be done is to fit the dry break coupler, re-check the valve clearances, do up the locknut on the swing arm bolt, throw some clothes on it and get it down to Steve for him to set up on the Dyno. I'm not sure it'll pass an M.O.T though with how loud it is so I may have to borrow back the baffle I sent Paul for a week just to get it through.

Ahem I forgot to mention a new set of tyres will be in order also. The Pirelli's on there now are a good 5 years old now, hard as nails and have had numerous dousings of petrol, oil, break cleaner, chain cleaner, chain wax and brake fluid during the build

u got an rvf wheel on their? if so get some diablo supercorsa pro's. their shit hot!

Yes mate I have, I'll sort some scrubs out at some point. Here's the spec list.


-RVF 17” rear wheel
-WP shock. Adjustable for preload, compression, rebound, and height
-RO (Rick Oliver) adapted linkage
-WP fork springs
-NHK damper with Harris fork mount
-RO Quick action throttle kit
-Titanium rear wheel nut, sprocket studs, lower yoke bolts, front axle bolt, disc bolts and various other ones dotted about.
-Braided lines front and back with rear line running through the swing arm
-Standard callipers with Honda race pads and Nissin 14mm master cylinder
-Chopped subframe as per HRC manual
-Chopped undertray as per HRC manual
-Homemade race loom
-Chopped sprocket cover as per HRC manual
-Renthal 15/41 sprockets
-Homemade shark fin
-Yamamoto Spec-A CF half system, restrictor removed
-SES meter stay
-Aluminium screen brace
-Alloy bars
-Alloy filler cap
-Chopped top yoke as per HRC manual
-Carbon fibre HRC copy air tray
-Lowered top rad for HRC air tray clearance
-RLR top alloy kit rad
-RLR bottom alloy kit rad
-Cooling fan removed
-Fireblade oil cooler with adapted water pump cover
-Adapted standard Tacho/temp dash to take neutral/oil pressure lights
-HRC temperature guage
-HRC open carbs:-
.... Main jets:- Keihin 147.5 front 150 rear
.... Pilot jets:- 40’s all round
.... Air screws:- 1 1/2 turns out
.... HRC slides
.... HRC stacks
.... Float heights set to standard
.... Needles:- FI adjustable fronts 2nd clip from bottom with 3x 0.5mm washer underneath
....rears 2nd clip from bottom with 2x 0.5mm washer underneath
-Carb rubbers matched to inlets
-Exhaust headers matched to oulets
-Ported heads to HRC spec
-Quietening gears removed
-NGK ER10 plugs
-HRC fuel and coolant catch bottles
-Monkey bike alloy oil catch tank
-Coerce rearsets

Ok, so I rechecked the valve clearances today and they were all fine which is cool. However, on checking the fronts I noticed something not quite right with the cam drive gear....





I guess I didn't get it meshed properly when I was putting it back together. How I didn't do any more damage I'll never know as the drive gear was barely touching the gears on the cams (it's moved to the left by about 5mm!) and it locks when you try and turn it by hand at the point that the quietening gear is mashed. Thankfully there's no damage to the gear on the crank and the engine still turns over very smoothly when done by hand so there's no stray bits of metal anywhere where there shouldn't be. Probably an idea to drop the oil and change the filter all the same. Whats odd is that it appeared to be running fine. Sooooo does anyone have a spare front cam drive gear they want to sell me?

I told you I'd break it!