well went for a blast to blow the cobwebs out etc, only did a few small miles, with the intension of paying a debt of £1 off to mate :) (great excuse to get out and see him) then over to mojito where i dj, and a quick hi the the girls at the beauty salon next door, i then left there about 9.15ish went to get fuel before i went home loads of cars and out of order pumps so thought fuck it im off, i dont do cues on the bike

over the island and BANG, i hit an animal, i hit the brakes mediumly i thought im giving him chance to move but i aint binning the bike to save you.

did a you turn thinking id hit a kitten or small cat, and would inform the house owners along that stretch, it turned out to be a fucking rabbit spazzing out on the road, so picked it up by his ears and one over the shoulder shake snapped his neck, im not into animal creulty and wasnt going to leave the half squashed fella in pain so put him out of his misery

i must admit i though when i hit it, i was coming over, especialluy as i had new brakes and couldnt give it a tougher fistfull as they havent bedded in yet.

how long do discs and pads take to wear in?

Rick

Dont take long, just dont over cook 'em for the first couple of hundred miles, could cause the new pads to glaze over.





Rabbit pie any one ?

I'd say get them working - I bedded some discs and pads in over 1 TD session on my YZF750 back in the day..

get them hot and use them hard!

CMSMJ1 wrote:I'd say get them working - I bedded some discs and pads in over 1 TD session on my YZF750 back in the day..

get them hot and use them hard!

Im led to believe if you push new discs especially wavys hard when new they tend to warp easier,

Dunno.. Why would it make any difference?

I think fannying about and not getting them hot is more likely to cause glazing and take forever to bed in.

I've got Stealth wavy rotors on no9 - they were so abrasive to start with that the first new pads I used were eaten in about 6 weeks. They were shit pads though.

in my experience it is old and grotty discs with seized bobbins and crusty calipers that allow pads to skim the surface that causes warping rotors.

CMSMJ1 wrote:
in my experience it is old and grotty discs with seized bobbins and crusty calipers that allow pads to skim the surface that causes warping rotors.

Nice bike Porndog. Really nice work

Light Weight upgrades more cosmetic than weight saving to be honest!
i have an A2 stainless fetish and i hate RUST!

so one Titanium rod
one hard anodised Top Yoke Nut



there are other bits i will be swaping in due course.

insulation tape to stop the socket rounding the edges off the alloy nut, and scratching my yoke! i know OCD or is that CDO?





oh an almost forgot a new aprentice in the making,

got him some red dickies overalls :D





something fishy going on with uploading the pics, keeps saying unable to determine the pic size?
ive uploaded pics from the same facebook album for the whole of this thread? any ideas guys.

cheers Rick

pics are now working for people that hed been trying to see them

Ricky, have just read this from start to stop. Great work so far - really ws a great read!

Whats happening with the new fairings? looking forward to seeing it!

hannakournikova wrote:Ricky, have just read this from start to stop. Great work so far - really ws a great read!

Whats happening with the new fairings? looking forward to seeing it!

Thanks Chris,

the fairings, i have a FULL set of OEM HONDA Original Panels, bit mismatch colour wise and a few small repairs, but original none the less, i will be painting these within the next few months posibly (worst case scenario) to the start of the winter, due to wanting to ride the bike this summer and will also be painting the wifes bike as soon as her panels are back.

as for the scheme im going to be doing the SEED scheme (With a TWIST) all will be revealed when completed