Thanks for the replies people!

Although I dont want mine to top out at a ton as I do a fair few miles when its nice...

I think I'll stick with standard sizes for now, Seems to cruise at 70 without revving too high but with pleanty to go if needed.

Spike16 wrote:tops out at a ton, I need more than that on the road, my restricted bike does 110!, i would be happy with about 120 top out

When racing (which ive read you want to do) you will find you probably dont need more than 100, I race classics so Im not sure what speeds a VFR gets upto but I'm pretty much geared for 100 flat out. For instance at cadwell I aim to be at max rpm before going into park corner.

yeh I understand you dont need full speed for racing but would have thought you would need more than just 100, but i supose it depends on the track, 100 at snetterton would no be good tho :)

Could you not change the gearing depending on the track your on..

yeh but im just wondering which is the best earing for each, that way i can get a good compromise for the lot as i done have the money to buy a load of different sets of gearing

Spike16 wrote:yeh but im just wondering which is the best earing for each, that way i can get a good compromise for the lot as i done have the money to buy a load of different sets of gearing

A 14t and 15t front will do, along with 40t, 41t, 42t and 43t rears.

That will cover nearly every track you can think of. Of course you'll need different length chains than standard for some of those combos.

Spike16 wrote:yeh but im just wondering which is the best earing for each, that way i can get a good compromise for the lot as i done have the money to buy a load of different sets of gearing

Yeah I know what you mean; I just think you would benefit more results wise if your bike was setup for the track you are riding rather than a good compromise for them all.

Like you said 100 at snetterton would be no good so you have your bike setup for more top end, then you’re on another circuit and you’re getting passed coming out of the corners because you need more acceleration and chances are you will never hit the top speed the bikes setup for.

Lads just wanted to add some info as people seem to be running a 14 front 40 rear setup. I calculated the percentage increase and it worked out at 7.16%.

By altering the sprocket ratios to a positive percentage change, you are trading some effective top-end HP for effective low-end torque. Torque primarily affects acceleration between 0 and about 65 mph.

The Percentage change is the increase or decrease in available torque compared to stock. It is also the percentage that your RPM's will increase/decrease for any given steady speed (i.e. - if stock is 5000 RPM at 67 MPH, a 10% change will make the RPMs 5500 at 67 MPH. Additionally, if your bike reads the speed off the front sprocket, your speedo will be off by this amount as well.

I use this program, just plug in all the parameters from your haynes.

http://www.dropbears.com/u/utilities/gearing.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;