Apart from the bodywork and swingarm there are only minor differences between nc21/n24 (there are quite many if you count things like cam sensor, engine part numbers etc etc) but overall very similar feeling bike.. the swingarm is just asthetic, they both use the same size tyres... i prefer the nc21 seat its more comfortable for rider and passanger.

the rear footpegs are different on the nc24 to accomodate for the higher level exhaust too. (also needs mactching collectorbox)

the nc30 was a complete upgrade in terms of chassis / brakes / suspension and the difference between it and the nc21/nc24 is much more pronounced.

if you already have the parts on hand then you can chop and change between them but overall there isnt much difference between the models... even with stock bt45s (you can get bt39 in the proper size too if you are lucky..) you can have fun time.

some people buy them becuase they are (or used to be) a lot lot cheaper than nc30.. but people eventually wanting performance hit a dead end and find it very expensive / waste of time / lack of parts to upgrade.

Anyone starting without parts and thinking to possibly keep long term, have easier option for upgrade should always choose nc30 over nc24.

the used to be a good cheap option but i noticed recently the price has gone up much so not such a good alternative anymroe.

I just started disassembling the brakes. Now there are more questions.

How do the part numbers (ML0, MR8) link to the frame/modell numbers (NC 21, 24, 30) ? I know Honda reuses older parts so you will find a whole bunch of numbers inside a NC24.

Front brake piston seems to be made of plastic with some metal cap? I was expecting metal ones. Is there any replacement or are they good enough?
Rear piston was what I was expecting.

Are some break parts interchangeable between other bikes?

The plastic pistons are fine on the nc24, they dont corrode.

ML0 is nc24/nc21.. MR8 is NC30.

waymoto have replacement pistons

Now I got one from the netherlands. Need to get it through the technical inspection (TÜV like MOT in UK) and get it registred.

One more thing: How do I check oil level? Placed on side stand or have the bike straight up in normal riding position?

common service manual.

bike level.

run it for 5 minutes first to circulate oil and allow 30 seconds for excess to settle.

Faxe400 wrote: Mon Apr 16, 2018 11:50 am Hello all

I'm interested in the Rothmans colour scheme.

Best Regards

Axel

As a FYI, image works now sell the entire rothmans sticker set for this bike - & it looks great...

Suzuki416 wrote: Tue May 22, 2018 9:38 pm As a FYI, image works now sell the entire rothmans sticker set for this bike - & it looks great...

May you please drop a link, please?
I considered buying chinese fairings, but this could be alternative option to move on once I'll fix fron susp.

Here you go:

I have almost restored a RWB NC24 (my first resto) using paint from RS Paints & the stickers from Image Works Stickers. I'm quite happy with it... lol

VFR400R NC24-4 by Pete Smith, on Flickr

VFR400R NC24-5 by Pete Smith, on Flickr

VFR400R NC24-2 by Pete Smith, on Flickr


I also had a full set of original Rothman fairings from my 2nd bike & they copied the stickers from these & now offer them for sale.

Very highly recommended.

http://bike-stickers.com/homepage.htm

Speak to Graham..

That looks pretty good to me. Well done!

Neosophist wrote: Tue May 01, 2018 11:40 am
... You need all the parts.. clutch master and slave cylinders, clutch pipe and you also need the sprocket cover from the nc21 (the slave cylinder bolts to it) ...

What about the rod inside the engine? When looking at cmsnl (Part 13 in clutch Picture), NC21 has other part number than NC24.(22850 ML0 000 vs. 22850 ML0 720). Differ they in Diameter or length?

Axel