magg wrote:Run Platinums myself. Initial bite varies depending on temperature, best after warm-up and regular hard use, not as good on first application from cold or after a period of light running. Seems to be nature of beast, my solution will be to ride accordingly until pads are used up and then change to Honda HH rated pads.

What you're describing re: initial bite is what I'm talking about. When you're out riding around on the weekend for fun sure the feel is pretty consistent due to you using them more often and keeping heat in them and the rotors. When I commute though the feel isn't as consistent. I wonder if it's just the nature of iron rotors?

Neosophist wrote:

Cru Jones wrote:

lukemillar wrote:Doesn't sound like the pads are the issue. "sometimes inconsistent" suggest something else. The pad is the pad - it's not going to change from one minute to the next. I use Ferodo Platinums on my 916 and they are great.

The symptoms you describe are more akin to air in the system which could come from a few places. If your bleeding technique is sound then I'd be looking at the m/c seals. How old is the m/c?

The m/c seals are not something you can easily change on a Brembo radial (or at all currently in the US). It's seen its fair share of use, but never been crashed on, so possibly m/c seals. Unfortunately, not an easy thing to verify really.

And the feel isn't a dramatic difference, but more of a subtle difference in terms mainly of initial bite.

is this is a real brembo master cylinder or one of the ever increasing chinese copies?

With the amount of fake brembo stuff out there now I wouldn't trust anything unless it came from an authorised supplier.. even a shop knocking out calipers and discs that are almost impossible to tell from the real thing.

agree with the comments that inconsistent lever feel isn't a good sign.

when did it start?

It's a real Brembo that I've had for probably close to 5 years now. I'm well versed in the Chinese knock-offs and know how to spot one, so that aspect is not a concern.

It started when I switched to the Pro-Lites from the stock stainless rotors.

have you removed them and remounted? sometimes some microscopic crap can get trapped and create a small wobble that will affect the pads and lever feel.

if it were me id get the wheel out, whip em off and make sure they are flat and mounted right.

New discs with new pads or new discs with old pads? Thought discs were steel not iron?

magg wrote:New discs with new pads or new discs with old pads? Thought discs were steel not iron?

Old rotors that were "rotor honed" and new pads. I think it might just be a trait of organic pads/iron rotors.

I have always used cp211 with my pvm cast irons for track use, and belive me they do brake. Also used them for a while on street bike, but took the irons off becase they rusted so easily. Last read they are going to be replaced by cp1.
Braketech (stainless, iron, ceramic rotors) has cp1/cp211 in the States.

Cru Jones wrote:

magg wrote:New discs with new pads or new discs with old pads? Thought discs were steel not iron?

Old rotors that were "rotor honed" and new pads. I think it might just be a trait of organic pads/iron rotors.

tried reseating the pads too?

cant remmeber what pads i was using but last bike i had an iron disc on one bike and it just went constantly rusty from lack of use.. soon cleaned off with a bit of braking but sold it and bought a standard disc as it wasnt necessary for town riding.

Neosophist wrote:

Cru Jones wrote:

magg wrote:New discs with new pads or new discs with old pads? Thought discs were steel not iron?

Old rotors that were "rotor honed" and new pads. I think it might just be a trait of organic pads/iron rotors.

tried reseating the pads too?

That's a good idea. That would probably help. I should do that actually. Thanks for the reminder.