Is there a link on how to do the r6/r1 regulator mod?

JamieDemos wrote:The shindengen regulator, is this a standard part on the yamaha R1/R6? Or aftermarket part?

Standard part, i also used one on my Ducati, never failed!

To determine if the rect/reg has failed you need to measure the battery voltage with the engine rpm >5000. Should be more than 14 volts and less than 15.5 volts. Burnt connector pins usually indicates bad connections not failed rect/reg.

R1/R6 is one way, although any FET version (FH series) rect/reg is recommended, as the technology produces the least amount of heat. SCR types (SH series) off larger capacity bikes might be more reliable but still run hot.

OEM style rect/reg can be reliable if mounted well and the bike run headlights on so as to reduce the load on the regulator.

Why did you add the aluminium plate to the last install, only increases the resistance of the heat path. Thermal paste used between regulator/plate/frame?

Hi, thanks for the info guys. I will try rewiring the charging circuit before replacing the regulator. Otherwise its onto the r1/r6 regulator...

@magg, I added the aluminum plate to increase the heat dissipation away from the regulator, aluminium dissipates heat faster than steel (which is what the frame is made of). I added the thermal paste to further increase the heat dissipation away from the regulator (the thermal paste increases heat flow at the interface between the reg/aluminium plate/ frame. Allowing heat to flow away quicker.

Surface area is the factor that matters for a heat sink. The chassis is the largest surface area available thus best thermal contact between rect/reg and chassis will maximize thermal dissipation. Additional aluminuim plate will not improve dissipation unless it has a surface area equal to or greater than the chassis, and the additional interfaces with the aluminium plate will increase the thermal resistance between the rect/reg and chassis.

I understand what you are saying, that is why the aluminium plate inbetween the chassis and reg was wider than the width of the regulator. Ie. Increasing surface area for heat dissipation.

The chassis surface area is not just the chassis mounting plate but all the metal structure of the chassis. Heat will flow away from the rect/reg through all the chassis structure, provided the chassis structure temperature is lower than the rect/reg.

From my experience, a well mounted, well connected Shindengen SCR unit can be reliable (five years and counting) particularly when headlights always on operation is employed.

Anyway this is all academic if you move to a FET based rect/reg.

Any battery voltage measurements?

I did not take any measurements, as soon as I saw smoke coming off the yellow wires I shut the engine off as I was worried I would fry the battery. I will take some measurements after i rewire the system.

Also - worth doing the mod where the output from the reg/rec is run *directly* to the battery rather than through the wiring loom. I did this and the voltage at the battery increased by 2v. Use a fuse though...

What amperage fuse should i be using?