Soupyzrx wrote:Okaaaay....Soooooo........?
Remember me? And my stupid questions?

Changing the oil is gonna be the last thing I try cos it is a total pain in the bangle on my bike.
For some reason one of the front downpipes on mine passes directly under the sump drain plug, and it's close enough so that the plug won't unscrew far enough to remove it. So, to drain the oil I have to remove half the bleeding exhaust system!
Pain. In. The. Hole.
I guess I'll have to do something about it, next time I'm changing the oil, but I couldn't face it tonight.
Oh well, I'll chuck it back together and try to set the cable right.
I can tell you are all frantic to know how I get on by the overwhelming flood of replies and advice, lol, so I'll keep you posted.
TTFN.

Can a dry clutch be fitted to a NC30? Didn't know that.

Ok buddy

I have recently replaced my clutch kit with new ebc frictions & steels and new set of ebc uprated springs and had engagement and total slipping problems the fix was found by replacing the ebc springs as when layed on a flat surface they were warped so the clutch only ran on 50% of the discs at that point I also noticed slight grooves an the basket also common that stopped the plates from moving so lightly filed them off changed back to Honda frictions all reassembled now silky.

It will be something really simple but its frustrating in know taking it all to bits every time try looking at this when its all assembled - pull on the clutch lever the frictions should all move away very evenly every time if not that will likely be your problem.

Keep us posted and good luck.

benny wrote:

Soupyzrx wrote:Okaaaay....Soooooo........?
Remember me? And my stupid questions?

Changing the oil is gonna be the last thing I try cos it is a total pain in the bangle on my bike.
For some reason one of the front downpipes on mine passes directly under the sump drain plug, and it's close enough so that the plug won't unscrew far enough to remove it. So, to drain the oil I have to remove half the bleeding exhaust system!
Pain. In. The. Hole.
I guess I'll have to do something about it, next time I'm changing the oil, but I couldn't face it tonight.
Oh well, I'll chuck it back together and try to set the cable right.
I can tell you are all frantic to know how I get on by the overwhelming flood of replies and advice, lol, so I'll keep you posted.
TTFN.

Can a dry clutch be fitted to a NC30? Didn't know that.

Eh? Not sure where the dry clutch reference is coming from.

Sunnyday wrote:Ok buddy

I have recently replaced my clutch kit with new ebc frictions & steels and new set of ebc uprated springs and had engagement and total slipping problems the fix was found by replacing the ebc springs as when layed on a flat surface they were warped so the clutch only ran on 50% of the discs at that point I also noticed slight grooves an the basket also common that stopped the plates from moving so lightly filed them off changed back to Honda frictions all reassembled now silky.

It will be something really simple but its frustrating in know taking it all to bits every time try looking at this when its all assembled - pull on the clutch lever the frictions should all move away very evenly every time if not that will likely be your problem.

Keep us posted and good luck.

Cheers matey. When I changed the friction plates a while ago, I dressed all the grooves off the clutch basket fingers, so that's that one already ticked off the list.
I ended up stripping the clutch down again the other night, just to check that I hadn't ballsed something up previously, but everything looked fine. So I had to order a new centre locknut. Actually, I ordered two, cos I've a feeling I may be doing this again.
Since I couldn't find anything wrong, I ordered a new set of springs, despite the fact that the ones in it measure well within the tolerances. Couldn't really just put it back together as it was and expect it to be cured.
When the springs and nut arrive I'll have another go.
If it is still slipping, I guess it'll be the oil and a set of Honda friction plates. Jeez this is getting tedious. And a tad pricier than I anticipated. Heading towards two oil changes, two sets of friction plates, a set of diaphragm springs and three centre nuts! And a partridge in a pear tree F.F.S.!
The only other thing was the clutch lever and cable..... The standard lever was flopping about as the pivot bush was loose in its hole, so I replaced the levers with a set of span adjustable shorty jobs. On comparison, the standard lever pulls the cable about 2mm more than the replacement one, but changing it back made no difference to the problem.
The cable checks out fine. As smooth as you'd expect for a Slinky Glide.
Oh well. We'll see. Bet it starts bloody raining as soon as I get this sorted!

Soupyzrx wrote:

benny wrote:

Soupyzrx wrote:Okaaaay....Soooooo........?
Remember me? And my stupid questions?

Changing the oil is gonna be the last thing I try cos it is a total pain in the bangle on my bike.
For some reason one of the front downpipes on mine passes directly under the sump drain plug, and it's close enough so that the plug won't unscrew far enough to remove it. So, to drain the oil I have to remove half the bleeding exhaust system!
Pain. In. The. Hole.
I guess I'll have to do something about it, next time I'm changing the oil, but I couldn't face it tonight.
Oh well, I'll chuck it back together and try to set the cable right.
I can tell you are all frantic to know how I get on by the overwhelming flood of replies and advice, lol, so I'll keep you posted.
TTFN.

Can a dry clutch be fitted to a NC30? Didn't know that.

Eh? Not sure where the dry clutch reference is coming from.

Quoted the wrong post sorry. Was supposed to be this one.

Neosophist wrote:

gavins wrote:I wouldn't use Super 4 in an NC30, Comp 4 as a minimum and Pro 4 as a preference.

based on what exactly?

this is an 80s bike designed originally for 91 fuel and 10/40 or 20/50 semi syth oil.



I used Honda G2 oil in my bike, 10/40 semi-synth, not sure if you can get 20/50 anymore.

As long as the oil meets the required criteria (which pretty much all modern oils do) the only advantage a fully synthetic oil is going to give you is a longer interval before changing as it breaks down slower due to the synthetic esters.

The beware points are to always use an oil that is suitable for wet clutch motorcycles.

Some oils are have cleaning agents in them, others have molygrease and other friction modifiers to increase mpg, which work wonderful on scooters and other things without a wet clutch but will cause a wet clutch to slip like crazy.

Oils not suitable for motorcycles often break down much quicker as the gearbox of a motorcycle cuts the oil up quick and the lubrication capactity of the oil drops reall quick, I forget if it was Which? magazine or some other indepenandt tester but they tried a stock 10/40 car oil and it lost most of its rating within 800 miles inside a motorcycle engine.

Easy to get caught up in all the hype of needing a racing oil and having better protecion and all that nonsense, but for most people who are not running some hevily modified 460cc dry clutch racing setup club racing bike stock 10/40 will be fine for even the most spiritied of riders proviidng you change it when its due.

I've used fully synth bike oil in all my bikes for a while now, never had an issue( think it was Castrol stuff), but for a test I put fully synth car oil in me klr600 an it sipped straight away, but back on bike oil its was fine again.
Next time you get it to bits check all the plates on a mirror make sure there flat.

Hope you get it sorted.
Cheers
Ian