VFR 400 NC30 1989 - Reving Problems - HELP?

[CMSMJ1]

sounds knackered to me!

Picture time..

[Problems]

Wowww

Thats impressive.... how is it still in one piece? Guess you smelt a burning smell from that one!

Thinking i may just buy a new one for £90 - £100, just dont know what ill get with a second hand

one and i really really dont want this happening again.

Question, Do you know if stators for the 1990 - 1992 models will go on the 1989 model bike?

Thanks,

Andrew.

[magg]

Resistance readings are not done with the engine running, which means your readings are meaningless. Resistance between each pair of yellow wire should be no more than 1-2 ohms, the resolution and accuracy of most multimeters set this limit, and the resistance between each yellow wire and chassis should be infinity.

AC voltage readings should be done on 200volt range to get better accuracy.

[CMSMJ1]

Thanks Magg - this thread needed someone with the voodoo hoodoo of the smoke in the wires.

Andrew - stators should all fit across all models. I'd still buy one from a trusted member on here before spanking £100 on one.

[Problems]

Arrrr...Though i was done with that multimeter!

(I only don't like it as i don't really understand it, swear its made of hocus pocus)

Well that was lucky guess, was just about to order a new stator too. Thanks for the tip magg!

Well i guess theres still some hope then that its still in one piece then

Well i guess then ill redo redo the multimeter tests then tomorrow night,

and post how it goes.

CMSMJ1 - Good idea, ill hunt try though some of the old treads and see if anyones name comes up, Thanks!

Thanks again for the help guys,

Andrew.

[CMSMJ1]

Stick a wanted post in the right section.

We have loads of guys who are always having odds and sods for sale.

I replaced my stator with a GSXR1000 one... long story.

Racers often dump theirs to go total loss....

[Neosophist]

magg is right on the money.

lets clean up this thread a bit and start from fresh.

usually the stator will be ok, but as the picture posted by Mark shows sometimes it does go too.

NC30 has a couple of weak links in the charging system.


1. the stator to reg/rec plug (plastic block with 3 yellow wires in it) this connectors carries a lot of current, all the power from the stator infact, over time road grime and moisture and other shit corrodes the contacts, this makes it have more resistance (imagine a blocked sink.. to get the water to flow you need more pressure).. this causes heat which melts the plug, eventually the connection is severed and you no longer get any power to the regulator so your battery dies.

Connector is fairly easy to rpleace and the wires can go any which way, if you put new tags on they MUST be soldered not just crimped, make sure you clean everything up nice.. if your connector isnt melted it wont hurt at all to get the spades out of the plugs and brush them up clean with some scothbrite.

I replaced my partially melted ones wiht some heavy duty weatherproof AMP connectors and not had any issue with that since.

The reg.rec itself is pretty small so as theory and conjecture goes it doesn't dissapate excess heat very well, the easiest way to make the reg/rec work over-time is by letting the battery run down by not keeping it charged up when not using the bike regularly (this also puts more load on the stator as it has to continulally output high power to recharge the battery), also an old battery cant take charge as the plates in it breakdown so that can put more strain on the reg/rec.

Hondas advice is to always keep the battery fully chareged as the online charging system isnt designed to recharge a dead-battery (i.e. bump starting a flat) and to replace the battery every couple of years before it gets dead.

I got rid of my NC30 recently but that still had the original reg/rec on it and was running ok.

As for testing, do the following if you`re up for it and post back resutls.

1st disconnect the plug with the 3 yellow wires and label each wire A / B / C at the stator end (the side that goes into the engine...)

1. With the bike off and before starting the engine check the resistance over the wires, AB AC and BC with the multimeter set to a low ohm setting, you should get around 1 - 2 ohms depending on the accuracy of your meter, if you touch the two probes together before connecting to the bike, any reading other than 0 subtract from your final reading.

2. Still on the same ohm setting measure each wire to ground (use the earth strap if in doubt) you should have no reading.

3. Next set your multimeter to AC volts, if its a cheap one with a scale 200v setting AC~ is the one you want. Start the bike and hold the RPM at 5000 and measure AB, AC, BC. You should have around 50v AC on all 3 pairs.

4. Turn off the bike and reconnect the stator plug to the reg/rec (remember to clean or replace it if it is broken). Change the multimeter to DC volts, 20v setting if you have a manual meter.

4a. Check the battery voltage with the lights off and the bike idling
4b. Check the battery votlage with the lights off and the bike at 5000rpm
4c. Check the battery voltage with the lights ON and the bike idling
4d. Check the battery voltage with the lights ON and the bike at 5000rpm.

[Problems]

Hi all,

I had intended to post a reply before but iv got somewhat side tracked. Last night i decide I would fix my

exhaust system as one for the collars of the rear down pipes to the front down pipe had rusted away to nothing,

thinking id be able to do it before testing the stator again. Turned out that one of the studs snapped on the front down

pipe coming out and but the time i got it out (annoying in my panic I forgot I had a wielder sitting less that

3 feet away and picked up mold grips I know......I know) all i wanted to do was eat, shower and bed.

As it i,s im now waiting for new studs and a gasket to put the bike back to be able to check the stator.

Neosophist - Thanks for the explanation, it really clarified everything and it will really will help!

Ill post the result for the electronic ether Monday or Tuesday night ( when ever i get the parts to get the bike back

together again).

Thanks,

Andrew.

[Problems]

Hi all,

Sorry for the wait but iv only just got the exhaust all back together.

After reading what Neosophist said, I think I have a problem. As the wiring and connector was dammaged to the reg/ rec I had to replace them but I only crimped the reg/ rec wire back together and then used heat sleves over the crimps, I DIDNT soldered the wires.

Guessing i need to put that all apart and do that right?

To answer Neosophist list,

By touching the two probes together before connecting to the bike I found I had to remove 1 ohm.
The reading were 3, 9 and 8, meaning after removing the 1 ohm they were 2, 8, 7.

The earth was 1 for all, meaning after removing the 1 ohm they were 0.

Reving the bike to 5500revs ( with the setting at 200~ ) the readings from the three yellow wires were 19, 21, 19.

With the yellow wires connected back up and with the setting of 20vDC the results were

4a. the battery voltage with the lights off and the bike idling - 11.4 vDC
4b. the battery votlage with the lights off and the bike at 5000rpm - 13.6
4c. the battery voltage with the lights ON and the bike idling - 10.9
4d. the battery voltage with the lights ON and the bike at 5000rpm - 13

So after these results, im guessing i need to change my stator and take the reg/rec wire apart again and

solder and crimp them again?

Thanks again,

Andrew.

[magg]

Assuming your resistance readings are reliable, any reading between any yellow wire and the frame of the stator is bad news.