Not a hard job if you have the tackle.
As others have stated ; slacken top pinch bolts and cap but don't remove cap until you undo the cap screw in the
slider.
A rattle gun is a great help with a 8mm hex bit.( I cut down an old allen key as some 1/2" bits wont fit the recess.

A length of studding and some nuts locked together get you out of trouble if the valve block still spins with the rattle gun.

Re- anneal the copper washers for the bottom cap screws and wash inside the slider and valve with petrol after draining upsidedown. You will get loads of sludge out.

Lay everything out on the bench in order of dis -assembly.... there are a few different bits but it is a simple re-assemble job.

Use the stanchion as a slide hammer to remove the oil seal.
If it is corroded in.... use hot oil on the seal to soften/loosen it.

Thanks for all the advice, info and pics everyone - that's great! Will be tackling this tomorrow night all being well

If it helps, this video shows forks that are the same type (in terms of rough internals) and goes through the whole process, I used it the first time I took mine apart just to make sure I hadn't missed anything and it's spot on.



One piece of advice though, make sure you replace the copper gaskets at the base of the fork. I've known people to go through the whole process, skimp on a 15p copper washer and have the forks leak for the next month.

Good luck!

Anybody know the size of the copper washers ?

Yeah, I've got a receipt for some in my garage, I'll grab it in the morning before i go to work for you.

Thanks for the video Pearson* - that's a good watch! Some handy info and tips in that