My front left and right indicators have different coloured wires one side is orange/ blue whilst the other is orange/ green
Thats what makes it different for me

just had a thought.....

I once had an american (or something) spec 29 and it had 3 wires coming out of the loom at the indicator area something to do with them having to have the indicators on as running lights, connecting these up so they worked was completely hit and miss until I labled them....had your got 3 wires?

Also have you stripped the loom back at the indicator end to see what condition the wiring is in?

My R model has the three wires in the indicator part of the loom, for the front indicators, with one wire for running lights. Nothing added into the regulator though.

I stripped the wires back from the indicators and rectifier right through to the indicator relay.

The thick green wire from the rectifier splits into two and feeds the alternator, fuel pump, side stand etc....

What I want to know is....does it matter which of the two thick green wires I splice into?....

The silence is deafening!!

I'll have a crack at it tomorrow and let you know how I got on....fingers crossed.

I bought the clear aftermarket indicators off eBay from China.....first off the wiring that comes with them is a smaller gauge than standard OEM so they don't connect to the main wiring loom....but they also have 12v 10w bulbs in them.....standard OEM bulbs are 12v 15w.

This causes the indicators to blink faster than usual. The wiring is really poorly soldered as well and just didn't work altogether on one of the indicators.

Anyway, turns out you can splice into the thick green wire from the rectifier from any point!!

tanuki wrote:The blue tape and crimping is standard if you look closely you can see bits of it on this stripped down 29 Loom.



Have you looked at the indicator wiring at all?

Thanks buddy. This confirms it...I stripped half my wiring loom for no reason at all. Awesome.

The worst part is that I've reconnected everything to a higher standard than before and the bike's still popping the starter/ignition fuse after 10seconds of running???.....

Does anyone have ANY idea at all why my start/ignition 10A fuse would be constantly blowing after only 10 seconds of running???

Bike starts and runs well and revs....and then after 10 seconds just stops completely. Check the fuse and sure enough...blown.

I've got a new rectifier, new battery, all the lights work fine. Replaced the main fuse and no change??? I'm stumped.

I'm thinking I may have to buy another complete wiring loom and rewire the whole bike???

this is the fuse in the fuse box right?

I would start by disconecting things that you can do like switchgear, by pass the clutch switch, lights all thats stuff

and run the bike with each of these disconected in turn.....you may neeed to buy a bunch of fuses

Cheers, yeah that thought had crossed my mind. I purchased a box of 5 10A fuses this afternoon but I fear that may not be enough!! Haha