When I put mine back together there was a lot less than 5mm slack at the top, but you seem to have sorted that. Yes I remember taking the big bolt at the back of the tensioner right off and then the spring comes out. You put the body on then the spring and bolt, otherwise it just locks at the max and you can't fit it onto the barrels.

You can see how worn the camchain is when you set everything to TDC - the holes on the cams (at the genny side) should line with the dots on the cam journals, the amount they're out is the wear in the chain.

I see thanks Boris I'll have to whip the cover off and check out the marks you mentioned, wish I had of known this before but you live and learn, like I learnt to make sure there are no parts left over when you do a job. I put everything back together and was putting my tools away when I noticed I had forgot to put the top guide back on!

Did you torque the journals to the right spec ?

I'm a bit dumb Boris what part are you talking about? I only changed tensioner and took the top guide off, didn't have a torque wrench so obviously I didn't torque those I know I should have really mate. Need to strip it all back down again to change cam chain soon so will make sure I've got a torque wrench handy. Got any tips on riveting the master link, my chain riveter only has correct parts for riveting larger chains!
Cheers

Only messing with you. The journal bolts are 10nm I think, they're low but the valve springs push the journals up so you're really just compressing those springs.

If you take the front chain guide out, the tensioner off and the cams out you can wire the new chain to the old one.Then turn the crank over to pull the chain through. When that's done wire the two ends together or use a zip tie. Put a rag under it so you drop the link down the hole

Yeah I've seen the wiring both chains together method it's just the actual riveting that I'm not sure about!!

When overhead cam/camchain engines came out we used to use a tool like this ;
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/vehicle-j ... s/6188831/
to put two small indentations in the rivet link thus; X ,to prevent the sideplate being displaced
before being peened over with a small pein hammer and a larger one acting as the anvil.
They sell proper kits for the job now though.

This might be a job where putting the engine in the car boot and taking it to a bike workshop
to get the riviting done could be the way forward if you are not confident.

I mean; What is the worse than can happen ?