Morespeedvicar wrote:Hi, you'll prob have to turn the sleeve round aswell if you want the stickers on the outside. I dont suppose it'll make any differance performance wise, tho you may have to go up a jets size, but i've seen plenty that are ok with standard jetting too.
Cheers
Ian

I was thinking of removing the sticker all together, it seems to be peeling off, so no need to rotate the sleeve :).

I might give it a try and see how it goes with standard jetting. If it starts to cough and weeze, I might have to jet it to suit and throw it on the dyno.

Cheers

I have an nc30 fitted with viper end can and db killer (too loud otherwise) running standard jetting, no flat spots, pulls to 14,000 in lower gear and fuel consumption gives 240km on main tank.

magg wrote:I have an nc30 fitted with viper end can and db killer (too loud otherwise) running standard jetting, no flat spots, pulls to 14,000 in lower gear and fuel consumption gives 240km on main tank.

6.2L/100km doesn't seem so bad...considering my Suzuki Across gets 5.6L/100km. For the extra oomph, well worth it :)

Do you know what dimensions the exhaust are? Inlet, outlet and overall length? Be good to know, if it's short, a longer muffler might be quieter...so I hope.

Inlet and outlet 50mm, 400mm long oval, picture included.

magg wrote:Inlet and outlet 50mm, 400mm long oval, picture included.

That looks nice and clean! Is the rest of the exhaust stock?

Thanks for the dimensions, seems the viper one is shorter than carbon one by about 120mm...might make a bit of a difference in noise level. If not I'll make a "DB killer" to reduce it some what to more legal levels.

Db killer is an option that can be purchased with the Viper. Exhaust section from the 4 into 2 joint back is my custom so I could fit my custom setback rearsets to fit my 180cm.

magg wrote:Db killer is an option that can be purchased with the Viper. Exhaust section from the 4 into 2 joint back is my custom so I could fit my custom setback rearsets to fit my 180cm.

Thanks again :). I am 180cm tall as well, but I am Asian and squatting is in my nature so fit right in , but definitely not as tight fit as the rear sets on the race bike! So I think I'll keep the stock system all the way to muffler.

Cheers

Thought I'd start on the VFR after work today and pulled off all the fairings, it now sits naked and dirty.

How it currently sits.



Now before I took the bike to get a road worthy, I found the mounting bracket for the seat was broken which meant the seat would lift enough for me to access the battery! I did a temporary fix and to my surprise, it passed, but I don't think they checked it. I will be plastic welding the bracket/tab back on along with all the other broken fairing brackets/tabs. This is how it currently looks.



Now onto the clutch. When locking the bars to the right, the clutch wouldn't disengage...I adjusted at the lever to no avail. I checked the routing as Cammo suggested but it seemed all okay. Pulled it out and compared it to a new one I have for the race bike.



Top was what was fitted, bottom is a brand new genuine clutch cable. *face palm* Obviously someone needed a clutch cable in a hurry!

Onto the fuel tap. Sorry didn't get any pictures at this point as my hands were dirty and I didn't want to dirty the camera.

It turns out the vacuum diaphragm is kaput. Fuel started flowing as I pulled the hose off which was rather messy. Pulled the diaphragm side apart but couldn't see anything wrong with it, so I am at a loss with that one. There is a little nipple on the bottom of the diaphragm holder/spacer thing...is that meant to be open/closed and what does it do? I think it is currently blocked with gunk but I didn't check...just thought of it as I was typing this.

Regarding the stuck tap, it seems the ball bearing was indeed stuck as Neosophist mentioned. Pushed it a little with a screwdriver and the tap moved to all 3 positions. Had to move it back and forth a few times to get it nice and loose. So that's now working.

Also the fuel tap is really dirty, so I can imagine the carbies will be dirty too. Can I use kerosene on the fuel tap after I remove the O-ring and diaphragm? Was thinking of letting the fuel tap soak in kerosene for a while to loosen up any gunk that had built up. It was rather brown and slimy inside the tap .

That's all for tonight, going to hopefully pull the air box, carburetors and radiators off tomorrow for cleaning and inspection on the weekend. Kind of enjoying pulling this apart and fixing stuff :)

Has anyone bought and used this kit before?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400491809475 ... 1423.l2649

I have to change the tappet cover seals (front is leaking badly) and going to remove the exhaust so need new copper seals. Thought this kit would be easy. The head gaskets and other gasket could be used later on if I ever blow one of the engines.

Uhhh...is this normal?

http://youtu.be/-g_aYpXe49c

Decided to give the arse a bounce test and can hear the shock hissing on return...the other NC30 doesn't do it, but other road bike does it (but only slightly). Time for a rebuild I think, or an upgrade...depending on shock prices.