NC24 Workshop manual
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Re: NC24 Workshop manual
Starters normally always click when there isnt enough power.Vfr fin wrote:I have a multi meter yeah and have charged battery but its just clicking at the Solonoid even when battery charged it just won't fire up the Solonoid seems so be getting power coming into it but don't think it can pass it if you get me
Iv ordered another Solonoid hoping its just that which has got something failing in it as it could be the original from manufacturing of bike
What should the battery read to be enough to fire up just so I can check if it is that? But it was reading 12.4 before charge then 14 after charge
Thanks
You need to load test the battery to tell if its any good. Just becuase it charges up doesnt mean it has any power in it.
Put it on the bike and switch the main beam on for 3 minutes.
Turn off main beam, turn the bike off and measure the battery voltage.
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...
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Re: NC24 Workshop manual
Neosophist wrote:
Starters normally always click when there isnt enough power.
You need to load test the battery to tell if its any good. Just becuase it charges up doesnt mean it has any power in it.
Put it on the bike and switch the main beam on for 3 minutes.
Turn off main beam, turn the bike off and measure the battery voltage.
Hi iv done what you advised above I turned on egnitition and switch on main beams nd timed it for 3 mins after the three mins I took another recording my first reading was : 13.62
After main beams for 3 mins my second reading was : 13.46
I don't know if that's a good thing or a bad thing?
Thanks for ure help its much appreciated!
Cheers
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Re: NC24 Workshop manual
Battery seems ok.Vfr fin wrote:Neosophist wrote:
Starters normally always click when there isnt enough power.
You need to load test the battery to tell if its any good. Just becuase it charges up doesnt mean it has any power in it.
Put it on the bike and switch the main beam on for 3 minutes.
Turn off main beam, turn the bike off and measure the battery voltage.
Hi iv done what you advised above I turned on egnitition and switch on main beams nd timed it for 3 mins after the three mins I took another recording my first reading was : 13.62
After main beams for 3 mins my second reading was : 13.46
I don't know if that's a good thing or a bad thing?
Thanks for ure help its much appreciated!
Cheers
Can you put it in 6th gear and push it along a little to turn the engine over?
Thinking your starter might be jammed or your engine might be full of fuel and hyrdollically locked.
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...
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Re: NC24 Workshop manual
Hi my new Solonoid has just arrived and iv just swapped them over bike started first press of the button but won't sit ticking over for long after about a minute it cuts out, it won't run without choke and with choke on full is only sitting at two thousand revs, I can't rev it attall either as any touch of the throttle kills it
Iv charged the battery up before starting so shouldn't be the battery
One of my friends says it sounds like a fuelling problem?
Just seems to be one thing after another with this bike lol
Thanks for ure help
Iv charged the battery up before starting so shouldn't be the battery
One of my friends says it sounds like a fuelling problem?
Just seems to be one thing after another with this bike lol
Thanks for ure help
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Re: NC24 Workshop manual
Mostly bumping because I'm interested to know if a workshop manual exists.
Fin: I think it sounds like a fuelling issue. I had something similar with my bike after being stood for a week or two but it cleared itself so I can't really help. Instant cutting out with throttle application would suggest a lack of fuel pressure, check the filter or make sure there's enough fuel in it.
Fin: I think it sounds like a fuelling issue. I had something similar with my bike after being stood for a week or two but it cleared itself so I can't really help. Instant cutting out with throttle application would suggest a lack of fuel pressure, check the filter or make sure there's enough fuel in it.
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Re: NC24 Workshop manual
Already answered on page1 by cammo.samwell wrote:Mostly bumping because I'm interested to know if a workshop manual exists.
Fin: I think it sounds like a fuelling issue. I had something similar with my bike after being stood for a week or two but it cleared itself so I can't really help. Instant cutting out with throttle application would suggest a lack of fuel pressure, check the filter or make sure there's enough fuel in it.
There is no English workshop manual as the bike was a Japanese grey import only. There is a Japanese service manual, like all Honda service manuals it tells you how to do everything but assumes you already know what a spanner is.
there is no fuel filter on an NC24.
Fuel is a good place to start though, vaccum tap connected up properly and pipe not split? Fuel in the carbs (check the drain screws to see if you get fuel out)
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...
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Re: NC24 Workshop manual
I know that I'm a year after the event. But for future reference just cos a battery is fully charged and showing 12V+ across the terminal doesn't mean that it's good. It's all about the internal impedance and other stuff.
Regulators can kill batteries so you might want to get the output from the regulator checked by a motorcycle autoelectrician. You wont need a manual for this.
If the solenoid is clicking then IT is attempting to do it's job, normally the relay on the solenoid will operate (the click) and bring in the starter motor. A solenoid is used as the starter switch and wiring cannot cope with the huge Amps drawn by the starter motor. Your don't normally hear the click cos the starter motor kicks in and then the engine fires.
So the sequence would be to see if the starter solenoid is putting 12v on to the starter motor. If it is then it's either your battery isn't spinning the motor fast enough to engage the starter drive gear (it's duff) or the wiring to the starter motor or motor itself have a problem.
If fitting a replacement battery solves the problem, be aware that you have to think why your previous battery failed? Was it through old age? or could it have been killed by your regulator? If possible the latter then you're new battery will suffer the same fate.
I used to have to replace the battery on my VTR1000 every year because the high compression on the two 500cc cylinders required a battery at the top of it's game.
My pen'th
Regulators can kill batteries so you might want to get the output from the regulator checked by a motorcycle autoelectrician. You wont need a manual for this.
If the solenoid is clicking then IT is attempting to do it's job, normally the relay on the solenoid will operate (the click) and bring in the starter motor. A solenoid is used as the starter switch and wiring cannot cope with the huge Amps drawn by the starter motor. Your don't normally hear the click cos the starter motor kicks in and then the engine fires.
So the sequence would be to see if the starter solenoid is putting 12v on to the starter motor. If it is then it's either your battery isn't spinning the motor fast enough to engage the starter drive gear (it's duff) or the wiring to the starter motor or motor itself have a problem.
If fitting a replacement battery solves the problem, be aware that you have to think why your previous battery failed? Was it through old age? or could it have been killed by your regulator? If possible the latter then you're new battery will suffer the same fate.
I used to have to replace the battery on my VTR1000 every year because the high compression on the two 500cc cylinders required a battery at the top of it's game.
My pen'th