NGneer wrote:To be honest i don't think I have ever seen an MOT tester actually lift the back end of the bike and check for play during an MOT. Fingers crossed for the MOT but even if it gets through it would still be worth pulling the back end through and getting it right for your own peace of mind and safety.

Ah, my testers always check the bikes fully.

My local place is really good, they failed both the NC24 and my ZXR becuase of swingarm bearings were gone in the ZXR.. like an inch of movement! felt fine on the road though... and the rear hub bearings gone in the NC24.

I was lazy and never checked that part before taking to the MOT.. serves me right!

Glad they found issues though.

But compared to some places they just do bikes, are bikers themesevles and do machining / build work. even advised me where to find some cheap bearings

The mot went well, I just need to tighten up the rear shock , but it did fail on a crack in the rear disc and the sprockets or chain ! The mot tester said the chain is tight then goes lose in different Positions of moving the rear wheel around ? Is this a cause on the sockets as the rear sprocket looks good ? Can't see the front one until I look into it more

Cracked disc = throw it in a skip and replace. Was the chain an advisory or a fail? Chains wear unevenly just to spite us, so you end up with different play in the chain at different points. If you have a very tight spot in comparison to the rest of the chain, then it can make it hard to set the free play. You need to set it to the tightest point in the chain, but if it is so tight that the looser parts are excessively loose, then I can see it might fail an MOT. Don't tighten the chain using the tightest point as the reference, you will destroy the rear sprocket and/or the chain. Probably best in the skip with the disc, unfortunately.

I will need a new disc , cheapest best place for one ?
And if the sprockets look fine then you saying it could be a faulty chain ?
It was loose one side the half turn of the wheel the chain goes tight , a big difference 'thanks

Rick Oliver is your man for a rear disc, should also be able to sort you out chain and sprockets too

Bikes apart and disc is ready to order , just need to ring rick !
As for the chain and sprocket , when I have the bike up on the stand moving the back wheel , the back wheel does tighten up and that's when the chain goes tight ;-/ is it best just to change both sprockets and chain ? As rear sprocket looks good :)
Might sound stupid but when I taking the hub apart ready to change disc I couldn't find a Linkage in the chain to break it so had to pull it off with the sprocket , shouldn't there be a horse shoe type link
? And how hard is it to get at the front sprocket ? Sorry for all the questions !

It is always recommended to replace the chain and sprockets at the same time. I say recommended because some people will tell you that it's the manufacturer fibbing. Personally, I have the lot changed each time. You won't find a link to unclip because the chains on NCs are endless ones - the chain is joined by a thing called a rivet link. It has two pins that are flattened once the side plate is put on. Some people still use spring clips, that is their choice but like changing only the sprockets or chain rather than both, it is not recommended. I will not start the for/against argument on spring clips again... You need a grinder to take the rivet link out, although it sounds like you have found another method. To install the new chain, you need a chain rivet tool. Decent ones are quite expensive, but worth the cost. Alternatively, if you are not confident, get your local bike shop to do it, if it lets go, it'll make a mess of the chainguard, exhaust, and anything else it can find!

There's Is defo no horse shoe type link looks like its the grinder , how hard is it to get to the front sprocket ?
Thank you for your advice

sp00ka wrote:There's Is defo no horse shoe type link looks like its the grinder , how hard is it to get to the front sprocket ?
Thank you for your advice

Have you downloaded and read the service manual?

The sprocket is easy, just take off the cover which is a handfull of 8mm bolts.

Everything is outlined in the service manual, there are pictures too.

sp00ka wrote:There's Is defo no horse shoe type link looks like its the grinder , how hard is it to get to the front sprocket ?
Thank you for your advice

Here's a tip, leave the chain and rear sprocket on until you've undone the output shaft nut on the front sprocket. Have the wheel on the ground and the engine in gear, and the chain will give you the torque reaction you need to stop the engine turning when you try to undo the bolt.

Hope this helps,

Ben.