Koso clocks + restriction

[dgwebb]

I'm not entirely sure it's being restricted now. I just went out and the bike easily did 40+ (in a 50) it just sounds different as the revs clock up, at low revs it sounds like I'm being attacked by a bunch of really angry wasps who want to eat me, at higher revs the sound changes, it doesn't sound at all angry, I guess I'd describe it as puffy? But it isn't being restricted to 30mph (either that or my Speedo isn't correct.....)

Also, is it normal for the right hand side leg to get a bit warm from the heat of the engine?

[leopard_pagan]

the restriction is NOT i repeat NOT on low speed..
if this restriction has not been successfully by-passed you can not REV past 5,000rpm which usually equates to 30mph if your lucky in any gear.

now i have only ONE question..

can you rev past 5K rpm or not?

[dgwebb]

I wish I could tell you I'm struggling to get the RPM counter working, I need to connect it to the right wire (Yellow/Black I believe) which I'm sure I did... so I'm unable to tell you what RPM I'm actually getting! I'll take a rough guess and say at around 5k rpm it goes a bit puffy? I'm not an expert with bikes really, I'm pretty sure I'm just below Novice, maybe even below that so I'll work out why the RPM meter isn't umm.. metering and then derestrict it once I can find a pre-soldered 2k resistor that I can clip on with the blue things :)

Sorry if I'm being annoying with my questions which have probably been asked a billion times

Another silly question in my edit. I've ordered the resistor, can I connect it to the loom directly using the blue clip things or do I need to wire it to wire first then connect the wire?

Anyhow, got the RPM working, turns out in the settings you have to change it from Lo to Hi, now works perfectly (though probably needs minor setting adjustments) and the weather is gorgeous for a bike ride.

[leopard_pagan]

just use the blue clips.. but google the DIY how to de-restrict NC29 & you will find my instructions to which wires you need to bridge.

[garyboy_palaboy]

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I also got a headache when I installed a KOSO meter in my NC29. And just want to share my experience….

I installed a KOSO RX1N and was able to solve the issue of restriction by installing a resistor to the harness, but the reading of the RPM really was not accurate. It was like moving too fast and jumping. Did everything to find solution for RPM; connect to the RPM wire from the harness, wrap a wire to the ignition coil, change a different wire to wrap the coil, wrap a wire near the spark plug wire, still the RPM reading is inaccurate.

One time, all my electrical was fucked up, it might came from a faulty rectifier or the harness that lead to damage my Koso and the CDI. No busted fuse. My bike just suddenly went dead in the middle of the road.

Bought a fresh wiring harness and Ignitech CDI from Graeme, a new Koso RX1, and an R6 Rectifier. Now, everything works smooth, and even the RPM reading is very well. Tried to compare and install the OEM RPM, and the reading is the same. Runs smooth and fast.

My conclusion….the faulty RPM reading could be coming from a grounded harness or a faulty electrical system. Before I replaced my harness it was really a mess. So better check if there are any strange connections in your electrical.

And one more thing, just an advice…..To prevent a damage to your KOSO, install a separate fuse to it.

.

[dgwebb]

I have the RPM working fine (it's plugged into the green/yellow wire) I just need to find the right settings for Cylinders/Pistons to make sure it's showing the correct reading. My problem with it not working was simply a setting in the console itself, I had it default (Lo) when it should be Hi, switching to that after taking the plastics off and fiddling around for an hour was a real GAH moment!

I've ordered a bunch of resistors so Tuesday or Wednesday (whenever they arrive) I'll plug one in according to the fantastic image that shows how it's done (which is really easy to understand, even for a noob like me!).

Still unsure if I should be feeling warmth on my left leg when riding the bike however, I'm hopeful it's normal and not a sign that there is a problem somewhere (just spend £400 on getting my NC29 through it's MOT, I figure I've spent close to £2000 or more on her so far and the tank still needs painting and other cosmetic things).

[leopard_pagan]

In this heat, everything gets hot. I do tend to errrrr get the breeze going in the leg area!

Fitting a fuse to the main power feed to the clocks is very good advice.

[dgwebb]

Fitting a separate fuse does sound rather complicated. I had to read the instruction manual for my calculator just to figure out how to turn it off..... I'd guess it's simply a matter cutting the wire somewhere and soldering a fuse holder to the two bits of wire then inserting an appropriate fuse, however, my soldering skills are sadly lacking, then I'd probably end up sticking in the wrong AMP fuse and blow the bike up

/edit - my resistors arrived today but were too small to just clip in to the clipping in thingies so I did have to solder, I'm terrible at it but it seems to work alright.... started her up and she did rev up quite high compared to before so I'm guessing it's working, I'll take her out for a test ride directly and hope that my soldering doesn't come undone, though, worst case scenario if that happens, it'll just restrict itself...... right?

[leopard_pagan]

yes if the solder breaks or comes loose you wont rev past 5K RPM, if your caught out on the bike when this happens (as i have a few times!) you CAN ride the bike home.. if you keep it under 5K... more or less 30pmh ish..

Soldering... practice makes perfect.

Link to how to solder wires.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BxeDkcAa4Fs