More electrical testing....
Forum rules
Please can you post items for sale or wanted in the correct For Sale section. Items / bikes for sale here will be removed without warning. Reasons for this are in the FAQ. Thanks
Please can you post items for sale or wanted in the correct For Sale section. Items / bikes for sale here will be removed without warning. Reasons for this are in the FAQ. Thanks
- CMSMJ1
- Moderators
- Posts: 7161
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 9:42 am
- Bike owned: NC30-No9
- Location: Chesterfield, United Kingdom
Re: More electrical testing....
Neosophist wrote:I think you have a bad earth somewhere, you reg/reg is doing the job of converting the voltage.
I will assume with the ignition off the battery voltage is less than 13.5.
Run a new earth from the reg/rec to the battery direct and check the voltage.
This is turning into a bit of a xilvia though,![]()
the bikes not running right, overheating (probably due to bad mixture) and now its dying.
OUCH....

IMPERATOR REX ANGLORUM
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
- vfrman
- Senior Member
- Posts: 1390
- Joined: Sat Apr 05, 2008 7:54 pm
- Bike owned: NC30, 1098s
- Location: Layton, Utah, USA
Re: More electrical testing....
Yeah Neo, that was a bit harsh...we have at LEAST 30 more pages before it turns into xilvia v 2.0.CMSMJ1 wrote:Neosophist wrote:I think you have a bad earth somewhere, you reg/reg is doing the job of converting the voltage.
I will assume with the ignition off the battery voltage is less than 13.5.
Run a new earth from the reg/rec to the battery direct and check the voltage.
This is turning into a bit of a xilvia though,![]()
the bikes not running right, overheating (probably due to bad mixture) and now its dying.
OUCH....
- bikemonkey
- NWAA Supporter
- Posts: 1524
- Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2011 12:33 pm
- Bike owned: 92 NC30, 90 VFR750
- Location: Oxfordshire
Re: More electrical testing....
I know right, insults.
I know why the bike over-heated, I was an idiot with the HRC header bottle.
The reg/rec to battery wiring is direct as per magg's charging system upgrade.
Positive wire from reg/rec to battery with a 30A inline fuse, negative wire straight from reg/rec to battery done in the shortest route possible.
I checked the inline fuse, that's intact, the battery is in good condition after a charge last night and the stator readings all seem good.
It could be my messy wiring that I'm going to re-do after ordering a soldering iron which shouldn't melt its own tip. (That's the main reason for the shitty wiring in the first place)
And from what I can gather from the testing guide that vfrman posted a link to, and the readings I've had from the reg/rec, it seems to me that the reg/rec isn't working correctly.
The bike is not running right I admit. I re-set the pilot screws to 2 turns out but it still idles rough and doesn't like starting when warm. That could be massively out of balance carbs, knackered carb rubbers or I haven't got the carbs seated properly.
I will re-do all the charging system checks and post them back.
Hopefully we can get to the bottom of this, and I'm betting it's my dodgy wiring and/or the reg/rec.
I know why the bike over-heated, I was an idiot with the HRC header bottle.
The reg/rec to battery wiring is direct as per magg's charging system upgrade.
Positive wire from reg/rec to battery with a 30A inline fuse, negative wire straight from reg/rec to battery done in the shortest route possible.
I checked the inline fuse, that's intact, the battery is in good condition after a charge last night and the stator readings all seem good.
It could be my messy wiring that I'm going to re-do after ordering a soldering iron which shouldn't melt its own tip. (That's the main reason for the shitty wiring in the first place)
And from what I can gather from the testing guide that vfrman posted a link to, and the readings I've had from the reg/rec, it seems to me that the reg/rec isn't working correctly.
The bike is not running right I admit. I re-set the pilot screws to 2 turns out but it still idles rough and doesn't like starting when warm. That could be massively out of balance carbs, knackered carb rubbers or I haven't got the carbs seated properly.
I will re-do all the charging system checks and post them back.
Hopefully we can get to the bottom of this, and I'm betting it's my dodgy wiring and/or the reg/rec.
- bikemonkey
- NWAA Supporter
- Posts: 1524
- Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2011 12:33 pm
- Bike owned: 92 NC30, 90 VFR750
- Location: Oxfordshire
Re: More electrical testing....
Bike was being an arse to start again, but that's for another thread.
Right so to re-cap/this is the second load of tests.
Voltage across battery ignition OFF: 13.5
Voltage across battery ignition ON: 13.3-13.4
Voltage across battery at idle: 13.1-13.2
Voltage across battery at 5k rpm: 13.2
Stator windings AC voltage from winding to negative at 5k rpm: 90.3, 70.2, 27.2 (the 27.2 could be fudged wiring, the gsxr stator looked immaculate before I fitted it)
Stator windings resistance readings from one to another: 1.2, 1.1, 1.3 (must not have been doing these right before)
Reg/rec positive pin (using postive multimeter wire) to windings (using negative multimeter wire):1/no change
Reg/rec positive pin (using negative multimeter wire) to windings (using positive multimeter wire):0.574-0.584
Reg/rec negative pin (using positive multimeter wire) to windings (using negative multimeter wire):0.568-0.579
Reg/rec negative pin (using negative multimeter wire) to windings (using positive multimeter wire):1/no change
Right so to re-cap/this is the second load of tests.
Voltage across battery ignition OFF: 13.5
Voltage across battery ignition ON: 13.3-13.4
Voltage across battery at idle: 13.1-13.2
Voltage across battery at 5k rpm: 13.2
Stator windings AC voltage from winding to negative at 5k rpm: 90.3, 70.2, 27.2 (the 27.2 could be fudged wiring, the gsxr stator looked immaculate before I fitted it)
Stator windings resistance readings from one to another: 1.2, 1.1, 1.3 (must not have been doing these right before)
Reg/rec positive pin (using postive multimeter wire) to windings (using negative multimeter wire):1/no change
Reg/rec positive pin (using negative multimeter wire) to windings (using positive multimeter wire):0.574-0.584
Reg/rec negative pin (using positive multimeter wire) to windings (using negative multimeter wire):0.568-0.579
Reg/rec negative pin (using negative multimeter wire) to windings (using positive multimeter wire):1/no change
- speedy231278
- NWAA Supporter
- Posts: 1549
- Joined: Tue Jul 03, 2012 11:58 am
- Bike owned: RVF400, TZR125, ZXR750R
Re: More electrical testing....
I'm convinced it's not charging. I don't see why the three windings would be different, so you need to look into that 27.2V as it may not be helping matters. I'm not sure if a missing phase will cripple the output or not to be honest. Seeing as you have three lots of a specific voltage, my head says only one phase is needed to get the right voltage, but you would then see a loss of current. Anyway, maybe there's a crap joint or something like that.
Can you scrounge a a reg/rec to check against yours?
Can you scrounge a a reg/rec to check against yours?

- bikemonkey
- NWAA Supporter
- Posts: 1524
- Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2011 12:33 pm
- Bike owned: 92 NC30, 90 VFR750
- Location: Oxfordshire
Re: More electrical testing....
I'd like to scrounge a reg/rec, it'd make this easier.
I need to take a look at my wiring, but I'll do that when my new soldering iron comes.
I'm with you on it's not charging, wouldn't have gone dead otherwise, and the voltage readings would increase instead of drop.
I need to take a look at my wiring, but I'll do that when my new soldering iron comes.
I'm with you on it's not charging, wouldn't have gone dead otherwise, and the voltage readings would increase instead of drop.
- thunderace
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 1584
- Joined: Fri Sep 10, 2010 9:03 pm
- Bike owned: R6, YZF600R
- Location: Blackburn, Lancs.
Re: More electrical testing....
Looks like the stator may be dropping a phase from those readings. Losing a phase will affect the reg/rec output. Did you take a resistance measurement across each phase on the stator?
Conventional wisdom says to know your limits. To know your limits you need to find them first. Finding your limits generally involves getting in over your head and hoping you live long enough to benefit from the experience. That's the fun part.
- bikemonkey
- NWAA Supporter
- Posts: 1524
- Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2011 12:33 pm
- Bike owned: 92 NC30, 90 VFR750
- Location: Oxfordshire
Re: More electrical testing....
Yeah I did, it's in that long list 
Got 1.1, 1.3, 1.2

Got 1.1, 1.3, 1.2
- thunderace
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 1584
- Joined: Fri Sep 10, 2010 9:03 pm
- Bike owned: R6, YZF600R
- Location: Blackburn, Lancs.
Re: More electrical testing....
I think the spec for K series GSXR stators is 1.0 to 1.5 ohms, can't remember the exact figures but sure it's something like that. So resistance looks OK but there must be a reason for the phase dropping out. Try re-checking on the stator side of the multi-plug, ie; before the joint. It could be something as silly as a dry solder joint causing a false reading.
Conventional wisdom says to know your limits. To know your limits you need to find them first. Finding your limits generally involves getting in over your head and hoping you live long enough to benefit from the experience. That's the fun part.
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 1916
- Joined: Mon Sep 20, 2010 11:55 pm
- Bike owned: VFR400
- Location: Blue Mountain NSW Australia
Re: More electrical testing....
With rect/reg disconnected measure resistance between the stator windings and the earth, should be infinite resistance.
I would also recheck the stator output voltage, 27 volts vs 70 is a problem. Stator winding resistance is not always a good indicator of the health of a winding. It really only confirms continuity and cannot detected shorted turns which will kill the output.
I would also recheck the stator output voltage, 27 volts vs 70 is a problem. Stator winding resistance is not always a good indicator of the health of a winding. It really only confirms continuity and cannot detected shorted turns which will kill the output.