thunderace wrote:If the charging system is working correctly then this mod shouldn't be necessary.

Difficulty starting in the colder weather? Is the choke operating correctly? What's the air/fuel ratio like? As standard, the NC24 runs too lean for the UK.

How did you come to that concluison?

115 is stock NC24 jetting albeit the earliest NC24s had 112/115.

Thats fine for the stock system.

Neosophist wrote:

thunderace wrote:If the charging system is working correctly then this mod shouldn't be necessary.

Difficulty starting in the colder weather? Is the choke operating correctly? What's the air/fuel ratio like? As standard, the NC24 runs too lean for the UK.

How did you come to that concluison?

115 is stock NC24 jetting albeit the earliest NC24s had 112/115.

Thats fine for the stock system.

You show me an NC24 that is true factory original in every aspect.

Even so, they do run lean in standard setup.

thunderace wrote:

Neosophist wrote:

thunderace wrote:If the charging system is working correctly then this mod shouldn't be necessary.

Difficulty starting in the colder weather? Is the choke operating correctly? What's the air/fuel ratio like? As standard, the NC24 runs too lean for the UK.

How did you come to that concluison?

115 is stock NC24 jetting albeit the earliest NC24s had 112/115.

Thats fine for the stock system.

You show me an NC24 that is true factory original in every aspect.

Even so, they do run lean in standard setup.

every aspect?

I can't really see how some modified paint and wheels will affect jetting.

The only aftermarket systems I know for the NC24 consist of an end-can and link pipe, even the DIC aluminium link-pipe end can is designed to work with the standard jetting. I've ran many end-cans on my 24 with a link-pipe and non of them needed a rejet.

The only reason I can see if if somebody intentionally down-sized the NC24 jets.

I stand by my original statment that the stock jetting on the NC24 is fine for 99% of people.

and fwiw my NC24 is factory spec regarding jetting what not., 14000km original toolkit and handbook still present along with service manual, parts book and other things.

Apart from that I have fitted the NC21 hydraulic clutch and a Yamaha R6 reg/rec relocated to the subframe but none of them will affect jetting.

More to the point, for starting the bike, would the main jets even affect it anyway? Wouldn't it be running on the idle and maybe pilots at that point?

Ok. Got it all wired up today, getting 14.4 v across battery at idle. 14.3 v with lights on.
Battery was 12.5 v with bike not running, ignition off.
I'll check it again tomorrow and see if its dropping charge.
Strangely when at 5000 rpm it was still at 14.4 v.
Replaced battery leads too. So that should help.

Sounds good to me, I did the mod on my NC30.

Got 15v at idle and 14.9v at 5k revs. I figured it was just the reg/rec working harder.

It's been modded for 3 months now I think it is and it's been great.
I usually do very short journeys round town and have never had a problem, never had to charge the battery, but it does help that I have a lithium ion one.

bikemonkey wrote:Sounds good to me, I did the mod on my NC30.

Got 15v at idle and 14.9v at 5k revs. I figured it was just the reg/rec working harder.

It's been modded for 3 months now I think it is and it's been great.
I usually do very short journeys round town and have never had a problem, never had to charge the battery, but it does help that I have a lithium ion one.

Your high voltages are prob more to do with your lipo battery than the reg, they high a higher nominal voltage (usually about14.4v) than the standard lead acid battery 12v.
Cheers
Ian

I see, learn something new everyday

What I was really getting at was the 0.1 voltage drop from idle to 5k revs.
Kind of similar to the results spooky is getting, I.e no voltage increase from idle to 5k.

Possibly because the charging system is now as efficient as can be without replacing or upgrading components.

so i'm getting good results then, checked the battery and its dropped to 12.3 v overnight, though to be fair i had started it a few times. I will either put it on an optimizer for a while or take it for a run and see how it goes, hopefully alls well now. lol.

12.3 is very low, although it will start the bike. I thought it was too low to do that, but during my recent woes I've been measuring everything to death and it seems you have to get to almost 12.0 before either the starter runs out of puff or the solenoid won't throw. However, if it was 12.5 previously, and you started the bike lots of times, and didn't measure it again until the next day, that might possibly not have helped. The voltage not changing between idle and 5K may or may not be significant. One thing I would suggest is that you test the voltages, and then take the bike out for 10-15 mins and get it nice and warm. One issue I have right now is that the battery gets low because when the bike gets warm, the charging system stops working until you leave the bike to cool a bit. As yet, I have no answer, but hopefully come next weekend I shall. It might be the reg/rec packing up at temperature, or possibly something weird going on with the battery or wiring.

When you've finished sorting the battery on the optimiser, if you have the opportunity, leave it off the bike for a good few days and keep measuring the voltage present. I'm not sure if batteries settle down after being charged, as in my experience mine comes off the charger at about 13.2 and then once on the bike drops to 12.8 fairly swiftly and stays there, charging issues aside. Supposedly, a healthy and stable battery loses no more than 0.1-0.3% charge in 24 hours, so once yours has settled (if it actually does that in the first place) measure every day at about the same time. If, for argument's sake, your battery starts at 12.80V, then a week later it should have no worse than 12.78 assuming a .3% discharge rate. It's not hard to calculate what you should have, simply open a spreadsheet programme, enter your initial voltage in cell A1 (use two decimal places), and enter cell two as A1-.3% Then drag the formula down into the subsequent cells for as long as the period you're going to measure. If the measured figure is less than the one in the cell for the particular day, you know the battery is not as strong as it could be.