So many new parts and still problems, and a strange one at that. Even though you have replaced the alternator I would still measure the resistance and open circuit voltages when hot. New parts have been known to be faulty.

The symptoms suggest a dud alternator when hot. Not much charge to the battery unless you rev the engine and so it eventually goes flat and headlights on speeds up the discharge rate.

magg wrote:So many new parts and still problems, and a strange one at that. Even though you have replaced the alternator I would still measure the resistance and open circuit voltages when hot. New parts have been known to be faulty.

The symptoms suggest a dud alternator when hot. Not much charge to the battery unless you rev the engine and so it eventually goes flat and headlights on speeds up the discharge rate.

My thoughts were with the generator too, but previous electrical testing showed no difference when hot. I've added in additional wires from the rec/reg direct to the battery and cleaned all the earthing points. I've eliminated all the connectors and soldered all the wiring together.

I'm going to test again and if nothing definate then maybe go for a GSXR conversion.

What have you done with the alternator output connector, can only suggest a further check of the continuity of the charging system wiring.

Alternator output connector has gone, hard wired.

Username wrote:Alternator output connector has gone, hard wired.

You need to disconnect the generator from the reg/rec to test it.

at least 50v @ 5000rpm betwee each pair of wires

Neosophist wrote:

Username wrote:Alternator output connector has gone, hard wired.

You need to disconnect the generator from the reg/rec to test it.

at least 50v @ 5000rpm betwee each pair of wires

The alternator connector, the one between the alternator and the loom has been removed. It is still possible to remove the wires from the R6 rec/reg and measure the voltages across the phases there which were 60V @ 5k RPM.

Can you measure the resistance of the phases?

Just my 2 cents. Potential battery?

I had a ford laser that wouldb charge alright when cold... but lower to around 11v when hot.
Replaced alternator, Tested fine at 13.7v when cold. Drove it through the country side, and by the time I got home the lights were dim.

Checked charge rate at just under 12v.

Load tested the alternator at the local auto elecs, and it passed with flying colours.

Turned out the battery wasnt accepting the charge

magg wrote:Can you measure the resistance of the phases?

0.1 Ohms across each pair.

amaechizzle wrote:Just my 2 cents. Potential battery?

I had a ford laser that wouldb charge alright when cold... but lower to around 11v when hot.
Replaced alternator, Tested fine at 13.7v when cold. Drove it through the country side, and by the time I got home the lights were dim.

Checked charge rate at just under 12v.

Load tested the alternator at the local auto elecs, and it passed with flying colours.

Turned out the battery wasnt accepting the charge

I didn't have any reason to think the previous battery was dud but replaced it with a new Yuasa YTX9 which holds its charge perfectly. It does live on an Optimate a lot of the time as well.