Where are you looking for the ignition fuse? it should be with all the other fuses in the fusebox in the nosecone. are you sure you arent looking at the starter solenoid under the seat? This has the main 30a (green) fuse in it.

then thats where i would be going wrong...

FAIL..

porndoguk wrote:the wire you want for the starter to work is connect the wire labeled starter or remote start for the cylone V2
the YELLOW WITH RED just remove some insulation at the wire, DO NOT CUT THE WIRING!

do this near the starter solenoid.

the wires near the "fuse box" that you need for the imobiliser are

Perminant LIVE = RED WITH BLACK

IGNITION SWITCH WIRE (IMOBILISER) = BLACK

Dan let me know what colour wires you have on the alarm and what they say they are for that way i can tell you where they go,

ive done the yellow and red wire, the blue wire need to be fitted to that. ive managed to do that.

its just finding the correct wires that the pink and brown go to (live side) and the grey wire (dead side)

i had it wired to the alarm goes off as soon as its armed, the reasons for that on the instructions are

You are on the main fuse rather then the ignition fuse, or the brown is connected to a permanent live

that was when it was wires in about the starter solenoid. so i presumed it because because it was on the main fuse (as the ignition fuse was at the other end of the bike)

so would the pink and grey be fitted to ignition switch wire as the brown cant be connected to a permanent live?
wich would leave the grey to be fitted to permanent live but it should be the 'dead' side as teh instructions state

there is obviously something im not getting..

WITH THE FUSE REMOVED THE GREY(ALARM)/BLACK(BIKE) WOULD BE THE DEAD?

THE BROWN & PINK (ALARM) AND THE RED WITH BLACK STRIP (BIKE) WOULD BE PERMINANT LIVE,

THE ALARM/IMO IS USING THE REMOVAL OF THE FUSE AS A SWITCH AND HENCE GIVES YOU THE OPTION TO PUT THE FUSE BACK IN IF THE IMOBILISER FAILS OR THE BATTERY IS DEAD TO DISABLE IT.

WHATS NOT TO UNDERSTAND DANTE?

DK-Tandy wrote:ive done all the wires to the instructions, but it says i need to wire 2 wires (pink and brown) to the postive and 1 wire (grey) to the negative of the ignition fuse..

1. find the motorcycles fuse box.
2. start the engine and remove the ignition fuse. if this is teh correct fuse the engine will cut out. if not replace the fuse and try a different fuse.
3. with the fuse removed and the key still in the on position, test the wires either side of the removed fuse.
4. connect the brown and pink wires to live side and the grey wire to dead side. LEAVE THE FUSE OUT (some fitters prefer to cut the ouput wire in half and attach the brown and pink to one side and grey to other.

when i remove what i presume to be the ignition fuse. its a block. with no fuses apart from the main fuse. the other 2 and 4 wires each with a flat connector part that sits on something which looks like the metal prongs part of a fuse..

so i have 4 wires. which make the fuses? now which is the ignition one? and which is postive and negative?
THERE ISNT A POSITIVE OR NEGATIVE ON FUSES ITS JUST LIVE ONE SIDE IS THE SUPPLY THE OTHER IS A PROTECTED SIDE BY THE FUSE, SO THE RED WITH BLACK STRIP IS PERMINANT LIVE, THE BLACK IS THE LIVE FOR THE IGINTION WHICH IS PROTECTED BY THE 10/15AMP FUSE, THERE SHOULD BE 4 FUSES, (5 WIRES) IN THE BOX THERES ALSO SPACE FOR 2 SPARES AND A BLANK FUSE I BELIEVE (THE SAME AS THE NC30)

PICS COULD BE HELPFULL OF WHAT YOUR LOOKING AT WOULD BE GOOD THIS IS A 5 MIN JOB AND THE COMPANY THAT SELLS THEM SELLS THEM TO SPARKS AND NUMPTYS LIKE YOU TO FIT WITHIN THIS TIMESCALE

COME ON DAN! GET ON IT LAD

i now have it working :)

I reckon if i was to fit it again it would take me 30 to 45 mins. To fit, and tape up :)

Its much easier when you know what your doing and once you've done it!