currently standard heads, and yamamoto rear, but i have a FULL tyga to go on in the next few days :D

Do you think this set up neo would work on a set of stock carb and a stock system. Or has anyone got a set up for my stock system and carbs ?

royster81 wrote:Do you think this set up neo would work on a set of stock carb and a stock system. Or has anyone got a set up for my stock system and carbs ?

The general consensus is that it will work fine
I feel that mine is a bit rich with this setup - particularly in the 6k ish rpm.

I'm going to try no washer under the needles & get it dyno'd to see where I'm at.

Phil

phil x wrote:

royster81 wrote:Do you think this set up neo would work on a set of stock carb and a stock system. Or has anyone got a set up for my stock system and carbs ?

The general consensus is that it will work fine
I feel that mine is a bit rich with this setup - particularly in the 6k ish rpm.

I'm going to try no washer under the needles & get it dyno'd to see where I'm at.

Phil

Are you sure it's rich there? This is a common place for a lean flatspot. (raising the needles usually helps) and the float-heights everything else is setup properly?

The UK bikes ran 120/122 jets due to elevation differences.

The Jap bikes ran 115/118 in later bikes and 110 in the K model.

(all with standard systems)

So if anything the 115/118 might be too lean in the UK.

Perhaps the 2.5mm throttle slide makes it rise slightly quicker to overcome the flat-spot? or just the getting / floatheights pilot screw combo.

I have gone from 110 to 115/118 and it idles rock-solid (float heights / pilot screws) and revs cleanly to the red-line.

Sorry it's dark now and the long start was due to killswitch but I hope you can see the idle in this video.

I have just removed by NC30 carbs and in the process of dong a full clean and check, so far I have discovered that the fronts are running 115 and the rear running 118 with a very loud race exhaust. I have ordered a set of 120/122 for the mains. I am aware that the float height needs to be checked, please can you tell me what the height should be and where it should be measured from (a diagram will help) - I don't have a Haynes manual (yet)

Thanks,
Tricia

I tidied up a set of s/h nc23 carb jets, here's how I cleaned the jets out.

http://www.therevcounter.com/mechanics/ ... -jets.html

CRM wrote:good call with the card to set the float heights, i use a plastic business card cut to suit. makes life so easy to check the heights.

I'm sorry guys, it's early in the morning and I have few brain cells at best but how does this L shapes business cards thing work?

And neo, how the he'll did you get your hand in to adjust the carbs? I've got a set of balance guages coming so took a look at how I was going to get my hand in and there's no way I can do it, one side the coil is in the way so I take it you went in via the other side?

royster81 wrote:

CRM wrote:good call with the card to set the float heights, i use a plastic business card cut to suit. makes life so easy to check the heights.

I'm sorry guys, it's early in the morning and I have few brain cells at best but how does this L shapes business cards thing work?

And neo, how the he'll did you get your hand in to adjust the carbs? I've got a set of balance guages coming so took a look at how I was going to get my hand in and there's no way I can do it, one side the coil is in the way so I take it you went in via the other side?

It shocked Ricky when I balanced his carbs too a-ha!

Firstly.

Small hands help.

Remove the clutch cable holder from the genny, 1 x 8mm headed bolt as this gets in the way. (i go in from the left side if sitting on the bike) otherwise it's the side with the side-stand and genny on it.

You can then fit your hand in, I hold a small 7mm socket, preferabbly one thats got ridges on it but either kind works.. these allow you to apply plenty of force to turn the 3 screws...

You can only ajust 3 carbs.. you set them all to match the fixed one.. but keep in mind altering one will change the other 3 slightly so work in a circle until you get them all near enough smack on.. (you can do this on a v4)... this latest bike too me all of 3 minutes to balance and another couple to double check...

Engine should be warm when balancing but not over-heating so be wary of burning your hands!

If it's too much trouble just buy the balancing screwdriver from Morgan.

And

This is an 'adjustable float tool.



Since you want to set your floats to factory (6.8mm)

Cut a section of card into an L-shape.. you want the distance between the top of the 'L' to the 'top' of the bottom of the L to be 6.8mm




(ignore measurements in this generic pic) but you get the idea.. in my sample pic the over-all length is 10cm... and the 'float height' tool part is 6cm..

Instead you want 6.8mm instead of 6mm and maybe an overall height of not much more (too big and it gets in the way...

you now have a non-adjustable float tool

You can invert your 'tool' and rest the top of the 'L' on the float bowl and adjust the floats till they touch the top of the bottom of the 'L' (hope that makes sense)

Similar to this floppy disc tool but less fancy.

I try not to keep mine very wide.. just wide enough to rest on the float-bowl gasket suface and protrude over one of the floats... i switch it to the other-side to double check rather than this fancy floppy disc one that does both at the same time.

heres one i made earlier

yeah after neo trained me in the art of balancing



it really easy to do, i also did uber pikeys,

it may pay to wear marrigolds, the pink ones make you do a better job! i used the yellow ones though!

i just use a 7mm socket and a small palm rachet,

as mart says remove the clucth bracket, and choke lever, idle adjuster,

if it gets to hot stop and redo it a little later.

its very rewarding when you do it the first time yourself.