cheers guys Update:

Battery is wrecked, tried to charge it, jumped it off a battery pack and tested the voltage when running.......... 19v unreal that will confirm rectifier shot

Ordered battery just unsure what reg to go for........

When you say that you've spaced the R/R away from the subframe with copper washers, do you mean you now have an air gap between the back face of the R/R and the frame? If so you'll cook your R/R really quickly. It needs to sit flush with the plate on the subframe to use it as a heatsink, otherwise it can't get rid of the heat quick enough (I did this myself last year thinking that the extra airflow behind the R/R would be a good thing...didn't last too long...d'oh)

RoninZX-10R wrote:When you say that you've spaced the R/R away from the subframe with copper washers, do you mean you now have an air gap between the back face of the R/R and the frame? If so you'll cook your R/R really quickly. It needs to sit flush with the plate on the subframe to use it as a heatsink, otherwise it can't get rid of the heat quick enough (I did this myself last year thinking that the extra airflow behind the R/R would be a good thing...didn't last too long...d'oh)

- it doesn't need airflow, as that air is just an insulating gap between the regulator and its heatsink, the frame. Best thing is to slather the back of the RR in CPU heatsink paste.

You can fit a carbed (pre '07?) CBR125 regulator. The same fitment exactly as nc30, and finned. Or you can get a cheapy Chinese pattern part for about £12 on eBay (search CBR regulator and sort by price). I would rather trust the one Honda trusted enough to fit as OE. We just fitted one of these to my dad's CB-1.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-CBR125- ... 2312aadb5c

I got two copper plates in the end and an original RR, used cpu paste between the frame copper plates and also the rr itself, fitten new batter and bingo 14v tops! i also ran a secon earth to the frame to be on the safe side,

FINGERS CROSSED!!