Neosophist wrote:Yep thats right.


Needle Height: Midrange (full throttle /5k-7k) - This is why I metion shims, NC30 have a hole at 7k that is fixed by raising needles

Pilot Screw: Idle and low rpm cruise

Do RVF's also have the hole at 7k that is fixed by raising needles?

Not usually, you can tweak them with needles if you get the hole.

Like ive said, get it back to standard so you know where your working from, take it for a ride, see how it feels from cold thru to hot, report back with how you have it set-up and Cammo / me et al can advise on how to make it better if it needs it.

trademe900 wrote:Do RVF's also have the hole at 7k that is fixed by raising needles?

How many washers are on the needles??

No offence, but until you take a look to see what's in the carbs there isn't much point in trying to diagnose the problem. It could be a number of issues.

Update:

In process of getting inside now.

Very disappointed to find some delinquent has cut off the snorkel and taken the bloody flat bit of plastic out under the headstock. Very frustrating the way people think they can 'suck more air in'...

The rubber sheet is still there that goes under the carbs fortunately.

I find it hard to believe how the top end is no problem like this since the snorkel is supposedly so important for high rpm? Does it actually effect low end that snorkel?

Getting the carbs off now...

That's how the rubber flap is supposed to sit?

trademe900 wrote:I find it hard to believe how the top end is no problem like this since the snorkel is supposedly so important for high rpm? Does it actually effect low end that snorkel?

Getting the carbs off now...

Yes it mostly effects midrange. Most bikes run like crap with mods like this, although nc30 carbs seem to be more sensitive than the rvf.

Let us know what you find when you get in there! I can't see any of the pics above, need to be a member.

Here are the pics of the all important cavity:

http://img858.imageshack.us/i/sdc13026.jpg/ http://img706.imageshack.us/i/sdc13027.jpg/ http://img203.imageshack.us/i/sdc13028.jpg/ http://img822.imageshack.us/i/sdc13030.jpg/

Is it worth making a flat piece of cardboard or something to fit in front of the airbox where the extending plastic would usually go? Does it have to be tightly sealed? I can't remember the last time I saw it on an NC30 in detail.

I finally got the carbs off and undid the float bowl to carb no1.... Found 108 size jet in the front carb. Happy about that.

All the pilot screws were a shambles... 3 turns out, 2 and a half turns out, over 3 turns out... just sheer abuse. No where near the stock 1 5/8 setting. As if someone had no idea what they were? What's confusing me is that since they were screwed far out... on the 35 that should mean it was lean... but the symptoms are all rich I reckon.

Bloody mindless fools had the carb bowl screws done up so tight you wouldn't believe... despite me being cautious I have wrecked a screw on each of the rear carb bowls so I can not open up to check out the jet sizes on the rears.

Since I have found 108's in the front, shall I just assume the rear ones are the stock 108 size too or risk drilling them out?

Haven't got to the needles yet, I can't seem to get them out of the diaphragm... doing my head in. I have just seen a picture of NC30 diaphragms and they are different to the ones I have here on the 35... how do you remove it? Seems like something so simple.

Get the screws out, use a pair of pliers to turn the screws or get a dremel etc and cut a small slot in the screws and use a flat bladed screwdriver to get them out.

You need to clean all the jets / passageways in the carbs and check / set the float-heights which will require access to all 4 float chambers.

You are counting full 360 degree turns yep (two half turns), not 180 degrees? (half turn?) as 3 half turns is pretty much 1.5 full turns.

Helps to put a mark on the screwdriver handle and turn it until the mark is back where it started!

Yep the NC35 slides are flat T shape rather than the round ones of the earlier bikes.

Neosophist wrote:Get the screws out, use a pair of pliers to turn the screws or get a dremel etc and cut a small slot in the screws and use a flat bladed screwdriver to get them out.

You need to clean all the jets / passageways in the carbs and check / set the float-heights which will require access to all 4 float chambers.

You are counting full 360 degree turns yep (two half turns), not 180 degrees? (half turn?) as 3 half turns is pretty much 1.5 full turns.

Helps to put a mark on the screwdriver handle and turn it until the mark is back where it started!

Yep the NC35 slides are flat T shape rather than the round ones of the earlier bikes.

Isn't the float height non adjustable on Nc35's?

Yeap I'm counting full 360 turns.

Until I know how to get the needle out of the slide to check how many washers I am stuck. This is ridiculous... I can't believe I can't get it out. It doesn't have a phillips screw to undo it like the NC30 one.

The float height is adjustable

12.5mm for the NC35

The needles come out pretty easy

http://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/ ... 1_0e3f.gif

Have a look there for a microfiche so you can see how they come apart