They do fit 3TJ and 4JH got 1 in mine, I think they make a differance to mid range power.

Hi Barryfzr,

Good to see someone has one, I began to think it was just the voices in my head.....I can't find anything on ebay, but there are kits from Factory Pro in the States. Problem is they only sell them with a nicely machined, but completely unecessary flywheel puller. Cost is about $70, key must cost a very small part of that. I'm happy to buy one, just not that much. If it turns up while you are looking for something completely unrelated, let me know.
I know the RGV guys use the FZR offset keys aswell, seems no-one liked them enough to produce ones for them....

It will apparently help low/midrange, more so on closer to std compression motors.

I know it was getting a bit confusing Kiyoshi, but we got there in the end. Making one may be an option, but homemade/modified keys have a habit of shearing and making bad things happen.

you could try on the fzrarchives.... someone on there might have one for you.

If I see it I'll repost

It wont break if you make your own, i lost one a while ago and had a little bit of alloy in its place for ages until i stripped another motor.

Just checked some old dyno printouts, advancing on a stock motor made about .25 bhp difference through rev range. Every engine is different though, go to 80bhp plus and the difference is usually about 2bhp.

Ditch your air filter, 110 main jets and needle clip in top groove, lots more bhp for less effort!

Or keep air filter, 105 mains and needle clip in bottom groove.

You might be able to get a woodruff from an engine builders/reconditioner if you take yours to them and see what they can match up, would have thought they will only be a couple of pounds

skater wrote:but homemade/modified keys have a habit of shearing and making bad things happen.

The key is only there to index the flywheel to the crank while you're fitting it, it's the torque applied to the bolt and the friction on the taper that holds the flywheel in place

Hi, i got one in my 3EN1 made it myself from a blank (mega thick key so you can machine it down). makes midrange feel better, weather it does really or not i dont know!.
Cheers
Ian

KIYOSHI wrote: Ditch your air filter, 110 main jets and needle clip in top groove, lots more bhp for less effort!

Is this a close guess for pod filter setup??

Pods are tricky because you need still air around the carbs to make them work. They're not difficult to set up on a dyno but then when the bikes moving the wind changes the air volumes which in turn changes the mixture from weak to rich and back again. Your better off keeping the airbox.

No those settings are for stock engine with race pipe and standard airbox.

Thanks for clearing that up.

I have the pod filters here to fit as need the space where the airbox sits for other stuff.