Re: rvf temperature??
Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 6:03 am
I had similar probs too, mine was a duff cap and a suicided water pump... there not so indestructible if the previous owners decide to use tapwater instead of distilled water / antifreeze mix.
Does it still run really hot when driving along?
Check the obvious things first... do you have enough coolant in the system? (Remove the rad cap and check) are the rads covered in shite stopping air flow? Is the rad cap ok? (check the seals arn't split)
While the cap is off, assuming the coolant level is ok and the rad fins aren't totally blocked, bleed the system for air (With the cap off run the engine till the bike is warm, snap the throttle a few times and look for any air bubbles that surface, kill the engine and top up with coolant as necessary)
Failing that check the stat and the waterpump, they are really easy to check but you will loose the coolant so drain it out before commencing.
Suspend the stat in some water and boil it, it should start opening around 82 IIRC, a crude way to check is that it should be fully open by the time the water boils, if not it's knackered.
Check the water pump next, remove the cover and see if the blades are ok (and they don't drop out like mine did! :D) with the kill switch on crank the engine and make sure the pump turns ok.
If all the above are ok flush the rad out, disconnect the hoses from the water pump and using a hosepipe flush loads of clean water through the top of the rad and then through the engine block and then the opposite way around, keep running the water till its clear.
If you had loads of crap come out it might be a good idea to use a rad cleaner, I used Holts 2 Step from halfords (£6.99) it's a chemical treatment not one of these abrasive sand types and the inside of the rad is spotless now, all traces of brown gunk are gone.
Refil the system with fresh coolant (50/50 distilled water / antifreeze) re-bleed any air and take it for a drive.
A bit long but I Hope thats of some help.
Does it still run really hot when driving along?
Check the obvious things first... do you have enough coolant in the system? (Remove the rad cap and check) are the rads covered in shite stopping air flow? Is the rad cap ok? (check the seals arn't split)
While the cap is off, assuming the coolant level is ok and the rad fins aren't totally blocked, bleed the system for air (With the cap off run the engine till the bike is warm, snap the throttle a few times and look for any air bubbles that surface, kill the engine and top up with coolant as necessary)
Failing that check the stat and the waterpump, they are really easy to check but you will loose the coolant so drain it out before commencing.
Suspend the stat in some water and boil it, it should start opening around 82 IIRC, a crude way to check is that it should be fully open by the time the water boils, if not it's knackered.
Check the water pump next, remove the cover and see if the blades are ok (and they don't drop out like mine did! :D) with the kill switch on crank the engine and make sure the pump turns ok.
If all the above are ok flush the rad out, disconnect the hoses from the water pump and using a hosepipe flush loads of clean water through the top of the rad and then through the engine block and then the opposite way around, keep running the water till its clear.
If you had loads of crap come out it might be a good idea to use a rad cleaner, I used Holts 2 Step from halfords (£6.99) it's a chemical treatment not one of these abrasive sand types and the inside of the rad is spotless now, all traces of brown gunk are gone.
Refil the system with fresh coolant (50/50 distilled water / antifreeze) re-bleed any air and take it for a drive.
A bit long but I Hope thats of some help.