Changing coolant
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Re: Changing coolant
Totally unrelated... is the Evel in your avatar pic?porndoguk wrote:i use silkolene coolant additive,
50/50 mix costs about £10 for a litre so bang on for the NC30

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Re: Changing coolant
CorrectMalc wrote:Totally unrelated... is the Evel in your avatar pic?porndoguk wrote:i use silkolene coolant additive,
50/50 mix costs about £10 for a litre so bang on for the NC30
and i also have his famous quote in my sig at the min!
loved him as a kid,
and also dougie lampkin
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Re: Changing coolant
I've just noticed that my coolant level is just below the minimum mark. I went to halfords to get some silica free coolant and it was pink whereas mine is blue. I'm guessing they're different colours for a reason and decided not to buy it. You guys think it'd be OK to top up the level with distilled water for now?
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Re: Changing coolant
Absolutely fine.Hadies wrote:You guys think it'd be OK to top up the level with distilled water for now?
"It's just a ride" Bill Hicks
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Re: Changing coolant
i wouldnt worry to much about the tank being bellow the line its an expansion tank, ie, when the bikes hot the water will expand and go into the tank, provided that the water when cold isnt excessively low near the bottom then youll be fine until.Hadies wrote:I've just noticed that my coolant level is just below the minimum mark. I went to halfords to get some silica free coolant and it was pink whereas mine is blue. I'm guessing they're different colours for a reason and decided not to buy it. You guys think it'd be OK to top up the level with distilled water for now?
distilled water +1
i use water from the dehumidifier then filtered through a few sheets of kitchen roll to stop big dust/fluff particles going through.
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Re: Changing coolant
There was a study done not long ago.
Mixing Red and green coolant isn't exactly 'detrimental' to your cooling system.
It will however turn your coolant brown, which to pretty much anyone, is going to look like it would cause problems.
I'm not saying you should not bother and fill up with pink. But if your stuck with nothing... it'll be fine. Otherwise if you really want, just give it a good flush.
Oh, and aren't the min and max lines meant to be adjusted when cold?
Mixing Red and green coolant isn't exactly 'detrimental' to your cooling system.
It will however turn your coolant brown, which to pretty much anyone, is going to look like it would cause problems.
I'm not saying you should not bother and fill up with pink. But if your stuck with nothing... it'll be fine. Otherwise if you really want, just give it a good flush.
Oh, and aren't the min and max lines meant to be adjusted when cold?
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Re: Changing coolant
for the NC30 it does not matter which coolant you use!- if youmix it with right ones:-)
in 1990 when the NC30 was build there was only one (silicat) coolant (which is the best for anticorrosion, if you change coolant from time to time), typical coolorschemas yellow-lightgreen-green and its called g05. Now is a second one available and that is silcatfree and of this type there are many specs called G11, G12, G12+, g12++ or BASF spec(german chemistry company) G30,G33, G40 G48
Dont mix the stock Honda Silicatcoolant with the red G12 silcatfree specification!!! there will be a chemical reaction, the coolant goes brown and looks like icecream and your engine (especially aluminium) goes away.
for the G12 red coolant you must drain the whole old G05 coolant system.
if you want silicatfreecollant (for lifetime fillment) you have to use the lila/violett/pink G12+ or better the G12++ spec, they are all compatible with all silicat coolants (yellow, green blue). But all silicatfree coolants dont have the anticorrosions performance of a max 4 year old silicat coolant. Only the G40/ G12++ spec use a silicicium package which is very close for that
If you want the best coolant ( antifreeze, anticorrosion, boil hotspot) so you use silicat coolant G48 -like BMW and Mercedes benz. But all silicate types have 2 minus:
- need to change coolant as manufacturer replacement plan.
- dont use it with magnesium parts
destilled water (deminarelised) will destroy your rubbercomponents like orings gaskets because they extract some chemical componets, and is very hungry for some salts and minarals :-)
in 1990 when the NC30 was build there was only one (silicat) coolant (which is the best for anticorrosion, if you change coolant from time to time), typical coolorschemas yellow-lightgreen-green and its called g05. Now is a second one available and that is silcatfree and of this type there are many specs called G11, G12, G12+, g12++ or BASF spec(german chemistry company) G30,G33, G40 G48
Dont mix the stock Honda Silicatcoolant with the red G12 silcatfree specification!!! there will be a chemical reaction, the coolant goes brown and looks like icecream and your engine (especially aluminium) goes away.
for the G12 red coolant you must drain the whole old G05 coolant system.
if you want silicatfreecollant (for lifetime fillment) you have to use the lila/violett/pink G12+ or better the G12++ spec, they are all compatible with all silicat coolants (yellow, green blue). But all silicatfree coolants dont have the anticorrosions performance of a max 4 year old silicat coolant. Only the G40/ G12++ spec use a silicicium package which is very close for that
If you want the best coolant ( antifreeze, anticorrosion, boil hotspot) so you use silicat coolant G48 -like BMW and Mercedes benz. But all silicate types have 2 minus:
- need to change coolant as manufacturer replacement plan.
- dont use it with magnesium parts
destilled water (deminarelised) will destroy your rubbercomponents like orings gaskets because they extract some chemical componets, and is very hungry for some salts and minarals :-)
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Re: Changing coolant
Shit, someone has to...atac wrote:destilled water (deminarelised) will destroy your rubbercomponents like orings gaskets because they extract some chemical componets, and is very hungry for some salts and minarals :-)
Nice info, you obviously know all about this shit. Where have you copied/pasted it from? Now, regarding your comment I quoted - if you don't recommend destilled (sic) or deminarelised (sic) water, and we know tap water is a no-no, what do you recommend we using in the cooling system? Every motor manual in the world ever recommends clean water, but you don't, so you need to back up this statement with hard fact, please...
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Re: Changing coolant
mineral water or brita filter seem to be the only options left,Malc wrote:Shit, someone has to...atac wrote:destilled water (deminarelised) will destroy your rubbercomponents like orings gaskets because they extract some chemical componets, and is very hungry for some salts and minarals :-)
Nice info, you obviously know all about this shit. Where have you copied/pasted it from? Now, regarding your comment I quoted - if you don't recommend destilled (sic) or deminarelised (sic) water, and we know tap water is a no-no, what do you recommend we using in the cooling system? Every motor manual in the world ever recommends clean water, but you don't, so you need to back up this statement with hard fact, please...
its the limescale thats the problem. and none of the above contain lime/alkali
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