yeh those ladies are something else...they're tops

thanks for the 6th gear clarification. noted for my next attempts

First thing: it is virtually impossible to over tighten the front sprocket. You want it to be FT, because you really don't want it to fall off.
Second thing: get yourself a really long bar and slip it over whatever breaker bar you have. The handle from a trolley jack is useful.

You ideally need a rattle gun for this job, these days front sprockets, clutch nuts, fork damper bolts and a couple of others are jobs I won't even attempt without one of those in my hand.

porndoguk wrote:

ludacris wrote: 6th gear offers more resistance when trying to undo.

No, doing up or undoing, 1st gear is best for stopping the engine turn.
Try it [without the brake on]
Bump starting in second rather than first locks the wheel up less.

I use 1/2" socket with 3/4" drive breaker bar and 4 foot of galvanised water pipe.

My compressor wont run my air gun, but it does a friend's ancient one

Dave.

my compressor just dont run the piston has snapped

oookk good news...

the old sprocket is out and the new is in. did the job with an impact driver and a longer breaker bar.

bad news...

the RVF is having gearchange issues. well this issue has been there for a bit ever since i took the sprocket cover off the 1st time. i'm almost certain that you should be able to shift through the gears even if the bike is stationary or on a paddock stand, correct? there are some bikes that won't let you do that...

i can only go between 1st, neutral and 2nd. anyone experienced this before or can shed some light on what's wrong? i've gone through the haynes manual and put the push rod shaft and placed the clutch cable pin and spring exactly as pictured (the push rod shaft is seated in it's recess) but no success.

does the bike need to be rolling to go past 2nd? btw i could go through to 6th gear as previously suggested when i was swapping out the front sprocket but i had the push rod out and the clutch cable unhooked..

ludacris wrote:i can only go between 1st, neutral and 2nd. anyone experienced this before or can shed some light on what's wrong? i've gone through the haynes manual and put the push rod shaft and placed the clutch cable pin and spring exactly as pictured (the push rod shaft is seated in it's recess) but no success...

Assuming the clutch cable etc is adjusted accordingly, are you having these issues with the engine running and you're actually moving?

If stationery (or is that stationary?) in the garage, its not unusual to find you cannot select gears apart from either side of neutral. Put it in second, rock the back wheel a bit, and try for third, then report back...

Alternatively, take it up the road and see what happens!

I have to get a new battery so can't test it running but I'll give the wheeling motion a go

ok i can report that the bike will go through the gears when its rolling which is perfectly normal i would think...can someone confirm whether or not they can or cannot shift through the gears on their RVF when its stationary or on a paddock stand so i can see if it's just a regular thing

ludacris wrote:ok i can report that the bike will go through the gears when its rolling which is perfectly normal i would think...can someone confirm whether or not they can or cannot shift through the gears on their RVF when its stationary or on a paddock stand so i can see if it's just a regular thing

you will find it hard to select gears when the engine is stationary or not running as the cogs wont move, 1st and 2nd can be got but youll need to move the wheel/sprocket to get into the rest

Yup same on my Yam as on my 30, you need to move the wheel a little to get anything else to engage