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Re: Cold rear

Posted: Tue Sep 21, 2010 8:56 am
by Cammo
Drunkn Munky wrote:Did you mess with the screws that adjust the butterflies when you had the carbs off?
LOL got there before me!

Re: Cold rear

Posted: Tue Sep 21, 2010 9:08 am
by TROUBLED OTTER
Didnt touch the butterfly screws.I did check that all four were open and closing together when I had the carbs off. I will try turning the adjuster screw up tonight and see if the rears worm up but I dont think its that to be honest.

Re: Cold rear

Posted: Tue Sep 21, 2010 9:31 am
by Drunkn Munky
I'd whip the carbs off and just double check that 1 wrongly adjusted butterfly isn't holding the rest open.

Sorry cammo but we all know your all a bit slow down under :whistle: :lol:

Re: Cold rear

Posted: Tue Sep 21, 2010 9:38 am
by Cammo
TROUBLED OTTER wrote:Didnt touch the butterfly screws.I did check that all four were open and closing together when I had the carbs off.
it doesn't take much for 1 butterfly to be out, poofteenths of a mm will do it. Taking the carbs off and moving them around can upset these settings which is why it's always best to synch them when they're fitted to the bike (I've never done it that way though!).


Drunkn Munky wrote:I'd whip the carbs off and just double check that 1 wrongly adjusted butterfly isn't holding the rest open.

Sorry cammo but we all know your all a bit slow down under :whistle: :lol:
Hey man, we're about 10 hours in front down here (that still doesn't help a lot of slow peeps here though...). :grin:

Re: Cold rear

Posted: Tue Sep 21, 2010 6:15 pm
by TROUBLED OTTER
Right, changed the rear plugs for old ones and the two left hand cylinders are running and the front right has stopped. If I pull the choke on full it starts and runs on two cylinders but if I try to rev it there is no response other than you can here it trying to suck air in the filter. Please help.

Re: Cold rear

Posted: Tue Sep 21, 2010 8:59 pm
by TROUBLED OTTER
Does it make any differance if I'm not using the tank and fuel filter switch. I rigged up a bottle with a filter to make it easyier. Thinking that the pipes going into the fuel switch may regulate the amount of fuel going in. Just clutching at straws now.

Re: Cold rear

Posted: Wed Sep 22, 2010 1:20 pm
by TROUBLED OTTER
TOOK THE CARBS OFF AGAIN AND FILLED THE BUTTERFLYS WITH PETROL TO SEE IF THEY WERE ALL CLOSED AND THEY ARE FINE.PUT THE CARBS BACK ON AND ITS EXACTLY THE SAME.I THINK THAT THE BOTTLE I AM USING IS AT FAULT BECAUSE THERE IS NO VACUEM AND IT JUST KEEPS FLOODING.I DONT REALLY KNOW WHAT ELSE TO TRY.THANKS FOR THE HELP ANYWAY GUYS.

Re: Cold rear

Posted: Wed Sep 22, 2010 2:34 pm
by Neosophist
A bottle shouldn't make a difference.

Did you block the vaccumn pipe off though, this will cause the engine to suck in too much air, i put a screw into it when not using the tank.

But have had NC24's and NC35's running for hours on pop bottles as fuel tanks.

Oh and I have seen Ricky's NC30 running with a fork oil / brake fluid bottle as a fuel tank (i balanced the carbs with it running on this) so know first hand that all 3 bikes do run ok without the proper tank....

Re: Cold rear

Posted: Wed Sep 22, 2010 7:15 pm
by TROUBLED OTTER
This is driving me crazy. What's the chances of both coils packing in cos I have one front cylinder firing and one rear. Checked for air leaks, changed plugs, checked wiring. It ticks over on full choke but dies when I rev it. The only thing left is the coils.

Re: Cold rear

Posted: Wed Sep 22, 2010 7:19 pm
by samace
Sorry to hijack this thread !!I have just bought a nc35 and have exactly the same problem.Starts and runs on 2 cylinders till warm then they cut in somtimes stil rides ok above 5k but below this tries to bog down. deffo fuel starvation. The person I bought it off said the carbs was ultrasonically cleaned. I have now removed the carbs to find them in quite a state inside floats are stained and residues in the bottom of the float bowls.

Lets see if it cures it !!

:rocks: