Neosophist wrote:The synthetic elements in car oil are of a shorter chain than those in motorcycle oil.

Car oil is not designed to be chewed up through a gearbox, by putting it in a motorcycle it breaks down much more quickly and will loose its viscosity rather quickly..

Bad idea.

Just get some Silkolene 10/40.. it's only around £18 for 4 litres.

You could spend £18 or so on oil, or perhaps £100s on an engine/clutch rebuild

I got the genuine Honda Oil filter and also 4lr of Silkolene 10/40 over the weekend and gave the bike a service. Its running really well. I still need to get an air filter for it but the one thats in it isnt too bad so I just use it for another while yet

I was out for a run with 4 other 1000 cc's and it kept up well! They couldnt believe how heavy it was in compairison to theirs!

There heavy compared to new bikes :-)

Sitting on a CBR600RR (2008) feels like a toy :-)

Neosophist wrote:

spooky wrote:When topping up oil do I have the bike on the side stand or hold it straight up, ie vertical? Can't remember which....

Hold it level.

Allow 30 seconds for the oil to level out..

Don't screw the dipstick in, remove it, wipe it and let it rest on the hole

cheers neo. you are a star..

I think my Haynes manual says to warm up engine 1st before taking dip stick out , wipe ,then putting it back in but don't screw it in, take it out and check which sounds like the correct way

code2006 wrote:I think my Haynes manual says to warm up engine 1st before taking dip stick out , wipe ,then putting it back in but don't screw it in, take it out and check which sounds like the correct way

I dont' think it'd say warm it up!?

You'll send lots of oil upto the top of the engine which will give you a false reading unless you allow a few minutes for the oil to drain down to the sump.

Its best to check it after it's cold / been standing for 5 mins