hardnutdvd wrote:

Claytonbojo wrote:i have the same problems as finny, my lights get bright when i rev but but then dim when the revs go bk down it turns over but it rund like crap, the battery goes flat and it a new battery! im goin to take my carbs appart and clean them as that might be the reason why it runch really crap any ideas wot the problem could be?

did you read superlites reply?? carb probs wont affect the lights.

no but i have now lol when i use the multimeter wot VT am i looking for when i check?

follow my previous link to the step by step guide... this gives details of what you should check and what voltages things should be....
if you are unsure of using a multimeter, watch a few youtube vids on using one. it might also be worth searching the V4 section using the advanced search function, search reg/rec
since owning an NC30 i have learnt that if you have never had a charging prob you have either been blessed or are a liar! lol

once you locate the prob and if it turns out to be a reg/rec fault, you may want to do a reg/rec upgrade. there is the basic 'fit a bigger rec' fix or a more comprehensive upgrade. you will find the link for this somewhere in a reg/rec topic but i cant find it at the moment!

hardnutdvd wrote:id never even used a multimeter before but after a few tutorials off youtube and a little reading it was a peice of piss..
check the connector block on the the right hand side of the bike first (right hand side while on the bike)
there is a cluster of electrical block connectors, one with the three yellow wires is running from your alternator then onto your reg/rec, this could be corroded and causing a problem with charging. it is also where you will need to check the power coming from the alternator.

yesterday i heard a clicking noise from right side a back box about inch sq like a spark jumping toke box off put bk on and it stoped bike was on for a good charge and seemed fine this morning goin keep an eye on it see if it diss charges hopefully not but to take the piss as i have just toke the carbs off to clean as it wouldent rev over 7grand now wont rev over 11 but has f**k all power really what u think still blocked bike has been stud for yr half

finney2003uk wrote:yesterday i heard a clicking noise from right side a back box about inch sq

That's the starter relay - it'll click when your battery is dead.

you aint goin beleve it batt n rec all sorted toke carbs off cleaned them put bk on went for ride seemed ok bit ropey got back home bike stalled then white smoke and oil out the exhust and a temp gauge in between 90 and red

hardnutdvd wrote:use this step by step guide to check the charging system and reg/rec
http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/pdfs/Tro ... G-&-RR.pdf

Well I have a manual which says when doing your "leakage current test" that the leakage current should not be more than 1Ma and in the "electreworld manual" is say no more than 50Ma which does sound rather high...........So which one is right???!!!!

hardnutdvd wrote:id never even used a multimeter before but after a few tutorials off youtube and a little reading it was a peice of piss..
check the connector block on the the right hand side of the bike first (right hand side while on the bike)
there is a cluster of electrical block connectors, one with the three yellow wires is running from your alternator then onto your reg/rec, this could be corroded and causing a problem with charging. it is also where you will need to check the power coming from the alternator.

so i just need to check that the cluste block connectors, alternator are ok and that the is the right voltage running through to the reg/rec? would i have to take the alternator apart?

SouL wrote:

hardnutdvd wrote:use this step by step guide to check the charging system and reg/rec
http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/pdfs/Tro ... G-&-RR.pdf

Well I have a manual which says when doing your "leakage current test" that the leakage current should not be more than 1Ma and in the "electreworld manual" is say no more than 50Ma which does sound rather high...........So which one is right???!!!!

50 milli amp is nothing, it'd take a month or more to discharge your battery at that.

50ma takes into account bikes that have a digital clock / alarm / immobiliser / management system that draws power when off.

On the old NC30's you don't have anything by default drawing power so you should have very close to nothing.

Anything <50ma is fine.

You'll know if you have a a short if you have lots of millamps / amps being drawn with the ignition off