Old Painless wrote:I test the battery voltage when its switched off, 12v, when its at idle, 12v, at 5000 rpm, 8v. I think i need to check that one again somehow.

8volts? is that to the coils? That might be your problem

VD are the correct carbs for this bike, they are of a CV type.

http://www.jacksons-lair.co.uk/specs.html

consult my specs page ^^ VDE2

crackiung the throttle open.. have you let the engine warm up fully? it'll bog when cold if set-up properly.

It sounds like your still having electrical issues at the moment.. once their sorted out you could really do with some dyno time from an operator who's good with carbs.. (preferably a VFR guy)

Providing electics and everythings ok, it'll just be a case of tuning the carbs.. which in this case is going to be float heights and pilot screws to accept full throttle without bogging.

It is kind of wizadry getting them to run right, but you'll get there!! Once you get one running the rest are fairly easy :)

Old Painless wrote:Are they supposed to be VD ? Im having some problems still. I have to set the idle around 2.5k or it stalls and cracking the throttle open quickly makes it bog and die instantly. I have tried pilot screw settings from 1.5-2.5 with mixed results, none good.

Yep, VD are corect. The haynes manual has a reference to carb id numbers to bike model, you can confirm there whether yours are nc24 carbs.

Are you letting the engine warm up before cracking the throttle and letting it die? A lot of nc's won't tolerate cracking the throttle open when the engine's cold.

The revs are cutting out when they shouldnt, i have done enough bike spanner work to know its not normal.

I checked the alternator phase to phase voltage output at 6000 rpm today, 70v so i think the alt may be dead ?

I may have a reg/rec off a 96 Blade buried in the garage somewhere, might dig it out. The voltage problems off the alt could be load related. Hmm.

I just found this:

Connect a multimeter set to AC volts across any 2 of the yellow wires and start the bike. You should get a reading of approx 15Vac per 1000rpm. ie 15V at 1000rpm or 60V at 4000rpm. If you get that your alternator stator is OK.

Is that reliable info ?

The Altenator is supposed to output 50v AC @ 5000rpm.

So the alt sounds unhealthy, great news. It checks out at 0.5 Ohms on each phase to phase test though, this makes me think it might be okay tbh.

The NC30 manual has a table which lists the resistance found between the different plugs on the Reg/Rec, is there a table like this for the NC24 ?

Old Painless wrote:So the alt sounds unhealthy, great news. It checks out at 0.5 Ohms on each phase to phase test though, this makes me think it might be okay tbh.

The NC30 manual has a table which lists the resistance found between the different plugs on the Reg/Rec, is there a table like this for the NC24 ?

Hmm altenators can be tricky.

It does sound like it's outputting too much voltage per rpm.

Check it at 5000 exactly and report back as voltage increases quite a bit as the revs go up.

Whats the bike charging at when it's running... at idle and at 5000rpm (measure voltage across battery)

If your having low power to one of the coils you might have earth problems, voltage drop across some poor / broken wires / etc.

I have a fault finidng list of the VFR electrics, i'll dig it out when i get home.

I have found the reg/rec is putting out a definite low voltage when the bikes running so it is being replaced, i have sourced an R6 reg/rec to replace mine with. The reg/rec for all early years of the R6 look to have the same external connectors so i guess they all do the same job in the same way.

There are three live inputs along the bottom row of terminals which will be the three yellow wires from the alternator, in no particular order as they run through diodes internally to the reg/rec and then the two single phase outputs on the top row are marked Black to ground and Red to live on the R6 wiring diagram. Just need a few spade connectors and i should be good to go, thought i would post this up in case anybody needs to find it.

I may solder the alt wiring and the reg/rec wiring if i can get a soldering iron in easily, it seems the connector block which joins the alt to the reg/rec has gotten a little hot at some point due to a bad connection.

No 4 is the alternator with a triple phase output, No 3 is the reg/rec with a triple phase input and a single phase output.

They all do pretty much the same job.

There have been a few unconfirmed reports of the 99 year being more unrealiable.. but that could be down to other factors such as peopel having bad gennys etc.

I use the 2003 - 2005 model.

Reds go Top Left, Greens Top Right, Yellows on the bottom



You'll have to join the reds together and the greens together as theres only space for 1 on the R6 R/R.

I weld steel plates to the triangle on the subframe and shape them to fit the recess in the back of the R/R and apply a layer of heat sink compound to aid thermal dissipation.. plus its out the way of the engine and has a bit more air-flow.

Touch wood not had any problems :-)

I filled the connectorblock with hot-melt glue after i'd done it, it's still removable just more water-tight.

Great stuff, thanks for the confirmation, i had found your post in a search.

I was thinking of pot-riveting it to the wheel arch but havent actually had a good look tbh.