Ha ha, no worries, you of all people should know I'm running on the vaguest of clues lol!

Been a while since I had the airbox off so I can't remember what's bolted to what?
I'm reasonably sure the rubbers from airbox to carb are leaking, not sure on the stacks yet.
I'll leave it till I can get an impact driver next weekendish.
Unless anyone knows a mechanic who knows '24's near uttoxeter? Rather pay and get it done by someone who knows what they're doing than start taking things apart and end up with the worlds biggest paperweight?

I'm reasonably sure the rubbers from airbox to carb are leaking, not sure on the stacks yet.

There are no rubbers from the airbox to the carb :)

Picture of airbox

http://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/ ... 9_b7d2.gif" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thats the airbox.. Theres a top and a bottom half.. the top part has 7 screws in it, then the lower section has 5 screws in it beneath the air filter.

What part can't you get it?

The airbox bolts to the carb 'tray' the tray holds all the carbs together.

The carbs themselves are on rubbers that join to the engine, the rubbers are secured with jubilee style clips.

The carb air duct tray can remain in situ when the carbs are removed.
The carbs do not need to be removed to check valve clearances.

It is likely that if carbs are removed and the jets and pilot screws removed, blow out the carb air ways, soak the jets in a carb cleaner, reset pilots and balance carbs, all will be well.
Don't bother with redex or similar.

The rubber ducts between the air duct tray and carbs seldom give trouble unless they have been forced on and the small air tubes are blocked, or the rubber flanges on the bottom of the
ducts have been distorted.
The air duct plate is not too bad to fit when the carbs are off, just make sure the dowels and air tubes are lined up, tightening the fixing screws a little at a time helps pull it down evenly, and apply rubber grease to the air tubes first.
To check valve clearances.

Front.
Remove belly pan, radiators, plug caps, clutch cover timing hole bolt.

Rear.
Remove seat, tank, breather hose, plug leads, undo harness and plug lead clips.

Dave.

For an NC24?

I'd find it nearly impossible to do the valve clearnaces with the carbs on the bike the hardest part about is getting an spanner and screwdriver into adjust the locknut on the tappets, especially on the rear exhaust valves.

But give it a go :-) if you can do it without removing the carbs will save you trouble next time.. but it does sound like you'll need to get them off anyway to clean em out problery :)

Neosophist wrote:For an NC24?

I'd find it nearly impossible to do the valve clearnaces with the carbs on the bike.

Sorry, I assumed it was an NC30 as they are most common and some one mentioned them.
I know nothing about NC24s.



Dave.

arsey30 wrote:

Neosophist wrote:For an NC24?

I'd find it nearly impossible to do the valve clearnaces with the carbs on the bike.

Sorry, I assumed it was an NC30 as they are most common and some one mentioned them.
I know nothing about NC24s.



Dave.

lol! I thought you might have done... the procedure is pretty much the same except instead of having shims the NC24 has adjustable tappets that have a screw and a lock-nut, oh and a 180 firing order so you check the valves in a different pattern :)

With bits in the way you can't get a screwdriver and spanner in to alter tappets! >.<



That type ^^

Measuring the clearance isn't too bad :-)

arsey30 wrote: Don't bother with redex or similar.

I'm pretty sure that Redex is just rebranded Snake Oil...

About 10 years ago I had a MK1 Vauxhall Astra (Opel Kadett D) that hadn't been run in over a decade.. I tried redex in that. Squirted it down the bores and all throught the inlet bodies etc, used the whole litre bottle.. let it sit for 30 mins to 'work its stuff'

It smoked thick white smoke for about 30 minutes, covereing the entire street in a cloud of smog :D

Didn't run any better after and cost me nearly £10.00 then :/

Most of my old bikes [50s, 60s and 70s] with screw and locknut tappets had squares on the adjusters not slots, so it was easier to get a small spanner on them rather than a screwdriver.

Dave.

arsey30 wrote:Most of my old bikes [50s, 60s and 70s] with screw and locknut tappets had squares on the adjusters not slots, so it was easier to get a small spanner on them rather than a screwdriver.

Dave.

Probably a better idea! There flat headed screwdriver on the NC24 (that pictures not of a VFR ) was just for illustration. Bit of a pain in the arse job to do when the engines in the frame as theres always something in the way stopping you from using a spanner and screwdriver >.<

would be much easier if it had shims :)