DataRacer wrote:

Landy63 wrote: ive never bothered to read any of the california stuff due to andy ibbot reckoning he could teach rossi a few pointers lol (his words) but it must be worth a read

I don't think Andy is being conceited when he says that, he points out some very good theory that actually would make Rossi a better rider. But that would just be scary, and old habits are hard to break.

TOTW2 is a good read, so also is 'Performance Riding Techniques' (often on ebay).

I agree..

While Rossi is currently the best MotoGP rider he can still improve his techniques... :-)

Thanks for the tips guys. I've got/read TOTW. I forgot that part about always keeping positive throttle, thanks for reminding me.
DataRacer: I highly doubt my NC24 has a slipper clutch. If I release the clutch in a lower gear without rev matching the back wheel locks up.

The NC30 uses the same clutch basket as the 24 but has a different 'inner clutch'

Is this some kind of sprag / backforce limiter?

Also the NC24 has 8 clutch plates (maybe 7) and the NC30 has um 4 ish?

I dont see any reason why the 30 clutch won't drop straight in there though seeing as the basket is the same Part number (ML0)

It is a sprag yes. It also has lots of plates..9 I think..

I like it..it works lovely style although you can get a bit of a skippety skip if you just dump it and are on the brakes very hard.

@ Lope - so what is your problem man? Are you thinking a bit too hard and finding that you are trying to do too much at once and all in the "right" order?

I hav a mate who is fairly fresh to riding and although he has the skills he seems to think a bit too much.

He'll mess a corner entry up as he is too busy thinking to move his body, brake progressively, change the gears, don't forget to choose a turn in, then make sure you look where you want to go, then start to roll on..etc etc

Should be hitting the main parts - the right speed and the right turn in point. Let the rest of it get sorted when you get a hang of your own style. Don't copy people, we are all unique and have to find our own way.

Ah I didn't realise it had so many, I was looking at the microfiche last nite and it only showed 3 or 4, didn't bother reading the text underneath

It should fit the NC24 though, I might have to ebay one and find out.

+1 on your own style.

I change mine between road and track but my track sequence is to pop out of the bubble as I apply the brakes and close the throttle, blip down the gears until I'm in the one I want (on the NC I'm aiming to have it as close to 10k when I'm back on the throttle).
On the SV I feather the clutch (no slipper), the NC has less engine braking (and a slipper) so I don't so much. I come off the brakes as I tip in (on a closed throttle) and I hang off[1], then 'catch' the bike on the throttle as it reaches full lean[1] before getting back on the power.

Druid

[1] Some advocate hanging off before braking and being sat to one side with the hanging out knee braced in to the tank. I find it doesn't work for me.

CMSMJ1: I was really just wondering how far before tip in is a good place to engage the lower gear (no slipper clutch on my bike so I like it to be fully engaged in the lower gear before I'm leaned over incase I don't rev match it right cos I don't want to upset the balance mid corner.

Lets say I'm approaching the tip in point, i could engage the lower gear and be at 13k revs with the lower gear fully engaged, still braking, then once I'm at 9k revs or so I tip in, then once leaned over get on the throttle as described elsewhere in this thread.

The way I see it, without a slipper clutch there are 2 options:
* Engage the lower gear early at high revs while still slowing down
* Engage the lower gear after slowing down (but this doesn't leave much time to feather the clutch out before tip in)

Thanks for the info Neosophist. If the clutch goes on my bike I'll try get a slipper.

I'd go for getting the bike slowed and into the right gear (which is part of the same thing) and when you have a target for turning and a speed that is right, then get it on it's ear and get the throttle cracked....

Don't take this the wrong way - Are you actually able to seperate all these thoughts into individual packets and look to juggle them about to make your riding better?

It should be fairly instinctive - if you come to corner and are on the brakes you should be able, from past experience on the bike, to be able to select a gear to match the speed you are coming down to. If you are trying to dump gears all at once then you need to get your timing bang on and practice it as it sounds like you are coming in too fast and braking bloody hard (which is taking your attention) and then just dumping gears and the clutch. = lock up.

I am pretty crap in the whole scheme of things but you might want to amuse yourself with some of the youtube comedy I have on cmsmj1 channel. Anglesey might be good as at the end of the straight you are up for a 6th to 2nd.

As they say in twist of the wrist 'your concentration is a $10 bill' I'm spending at least $2 on braking, $2 on gearing down, $5 on blipping the throttle and feathering the clutch and $1 on leaning, counter steering, and body positioning (which I'm quite used to)
So its taking a focus getting it all done right.

Maybe time on the track is the best cure. On my first (and only) trackday my skills improved 10x. I passed up on the last one cos I'm a bit broke atm :) but will do one in a month or two. (they're sort of once a month or less)

Lope wrote:As they say in twist of the wrist 'your concentration is a $10 bill' I'm spending at least $2 on braking, $2 on gearing down, $5 on blipping the throttle and feathering the clutch

Just practice these weak points on the road to get your mind/body trained, then apply it at the track (where it just happens a bit faster).