oh well carbs back off again in the morning

I can confirm that removing the rubber flap will destroy your setup. The carbs at that stage of tune aren't suited to taking forced air.
My old setup was completely stock with a scorpion can, with the stock jets power was fine with a small flat spot around 6k. Shimming the needles solved that.
Other people may disagree, but with just a can i would think installing hrc airbox mods is not really going to achieve much, keep it simple.

as said removing snorkel and surounding plastic in area is the best way to screw your fuel up unless you plumb all the carbs to compensate for presure increase it will just not work, the distance betwen the snorkel and the plastic area in front of it is critical, if you wish to make your bike work with a ram air / modified air box set up i can explain what you need to do by venting the float bowls and throtle slides to equalise the presure, but if your after a smooth ride i suggest you stick as designed, now you got it running take the bike out for a good run come back try not to leave it idileing and remove the plugs that will give you a pointer to the average jet size required maybe a size up or down each side that will help your power better than messing with the airbox.

Thanks for all the help and info guys i really didnt think removing that rubber flap would affect the fueling, if anything i thought it would help, more air etc. Just goes to show how resourcefull this site is.
So flap is back on aswell as shims and springs and bike pulls really well, tiny flatspot at the top end but nothing major, may try the 110 jets in the back 2 carbs see if that cures it.
It definatly revs better than when i brought the bike although i have also lowered the gearing -1 at the front