Neosophist wrote:Are the RR and generator new?

Have you also changed the battery?

brand new and the battery only 2 mouths old

tony147 wrote:

Neosophist wrote:Are the RR and generator new?

Have you also changed the battery?

brand new and the battery only 2 mouths old

did you test it with a headlight bulb and measure the voltage drop like in the elextrexworld guide? If so what did the battery drop down to after 30 secs...

Neosophist wrote:

tony147 wrote:

Neosophist wrote:Are the RR and generator new?

Have you also changed the battery?

brand new and the battery only 2 mouths old

did you test it with a headlight bulb and measure the voltage drop like in the elextrexworld guide? If so what did the battery drop down to after 30 secs...

wot do u mean "headlights bulb "done it with a voltage meter. run the bike 5min turnd the headlights on then off did make a dif

have you checked your generator visually?

I had this in my engine...and it would run, and almost worked for 20 miles but as soon as you put the lights on it was bye bye battery charge and hello pushing.

CMSMJ1 wrote:have you checked your generator visually?

I had this in my engine...and it would run, and almost worked for 20 miles but as soon as you put the lights on it was bye bye battery charge and hello pushing.

i put a bran new genny and rr out of the box in. sill wont charge

Did you follow the electrex guide I posted in the first thread from start to finish it'll tell you exactly what component(s) are not working, its quite through, and will test the diodes etc in the R/R unit :)

Just becuase you have new items does not mean they work ^_^.

Start with the leak test (step 1) then...

Step 2 - Battery Charge-Holding Test
Connect the -VE strap / clamp to the -VE battery terminal, so the battery is fully connected to the
bike. The battery voltage should measure 12V7 to 13V1 measured across the stud terminals on top
of the battery (ignition switch OFF). Switch on the headlights (ignition ON, engine OFF). Battery stud
voltage should drop slowly, maybe down to about 12v4 over a period of 30 seconds. Switch off the
headlights and ignition soon.

If battery stud voltage drops below 12V4, the
battery is not good and should be replaced.

Step 3 - Start up the engine and run at low idle speed. Meter should show battery charging voltage around
14V4 (limits are 13V6 to 14V9) at idle. Increasing engine speed should produce NO proportional increase
in battery voltage, but often will produce some small and meaningless variations in voltage.
Battery voltage should always remain between 13V6 and 14V9 while charging.

CMSMJ1 wrote:have you checked your generator visually?

I had this in my engine...and it would run, and almost worked for 20 miles but as soon as you put the lights on it was bye bye battery charge and hello pushing.

I believe I asked for my generator medium rare, thats clearly well done :D

all done now working ok charging at 14.6 it was a break in the earth chable in the loom by the forks after buying 2 gen and a new rr didnt think a bad earth would do that stop it charging and the temp gauge is ok now thanks 4 all u help in solving the prob much appreciated hope one day i can help u

That is good to hear matey...