Scott's NC30 Track Bike Build
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Re: Scott's NC30 Track Bike Build
Scott Jelleyman (member on here) sells them and is the guy you want to speak to. He has dealt with the Company to refine the product (lugs /mounting Points etc) and the ones through him also come with the curved top rad which fits better.
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Re: Scott's NC30 Track Bike Build
As above. Brought some from eBay, looked great but a terrible fit. Wouldn't work with the fan without reengineering the bracket, then it fouled the fairing. Top one needed new brackets making, then the cap fouled the fairing and they wouldn't work with my oil cooler pipework. I spent hours on them and finally gave up.
On another bike I got some through Scott Jellyman and they were spot on, about £120 I seem to recall?
On another bike I got some through Scott Jellyman and they were spot on, about £120 I seem to recall?
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Re: Scott's NC30 Track Bike Build
Thanks for the replies.
Jellyman: I will send you a PM.
Jellyman: I will send you a PM.
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Re: Scott's NC30 Track Bike Build
Raced short circuit last weekend and an oldish guy who was pit crew for one of the motard pilots had some comments about my bike and where I could improve (always one of them when I'm at the track with a 2 stroke). Anyway, we got to chatting about other bikes and the NC30 came up. He says he won our Powersport (250 2stroke and 400's) class a few years in the early 2000's on an NC30. He said something that was interesting. Apparently the cams are different in the front cylinder and what they used to do was put a set of front cams in the back cylinders. More power apparently.......sound right?
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Re: Scott's NC30 Track Bike Build
So I'm going with BS!?
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Re: Scott's NC30 Track Bike Build
It's true the separate cam assemblies are all different numbers in the parts fiche, but the only way to find out the discrepancies is by measuring cam timings during rebuild, and some members have done engine overhaul so I hope they'll chime in.
My take on this is, as rear cylinders run hotter and in bigger risk of detonation, it would make sense for Honda to be conservative with regards to fueling and/or valve lift/timings. This is confirmed with the carb settings in both the NC30 and NC35 cases. NC30 rear carbs have bigger main jets for more richness, lowering temps. And NC35 carbs albeit using same MJs throughout, are mated to different emulsion tubes front/rear, supposedly achieving the same effect.
So it is quite possible that the rear set of Cams on these engines might be a tad tamer in profile compared to the respective front sets, hence the suggestion swapping the rears for another set of fronts would find a tiny bit more HP which matters for racing, at the expense of durability. As said though, the only way to find out is to measure them back to back.
My take on this is, as rear cylinders run hotter and in bigger risk of detonation, it would make sense for Honda to be conservative with regards to fueling and/or valve lift/timings. This is confirmed with the carb settings in both the NC30 and NC35 cases. NC30 rear carbs have bigger main jets for more richness, lowering temps. And NC35 carbs albeit using same MJs throughout, are mated to different emulsion tubes front/rear, supposedly achieving the same effect.
So it is quite possible that the rear set of Cams on these engines might be a tad tamer in profile compared to the respective front sets, hence the suggestion swapping the rears for another set of fronts would find a tiny bit more HP which matters for racing, at the expense of durability. As said though, the only way to find out is to measure them back to back.
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Re: Scott's NC30 Track Bike Build
I've finally managed to get some work done on the bike over December. I plan to race it in our classic race series the first weekend of Feb.
My focus has been on getting a decent roller sorted using the best bits from the 3 bikes I have.
The swingarm was done first, had to do some serious filing and shaping on the adjustment teeth........hammer and flat used by previous owners on all three
Front suspension was disappointing, water ingress in one set with what looked like mud for oil, so built up a set using the best bits from the other sets.
Found two bent tubes as well, one in each set. Put 10 weight oil in, hope they will be ok......will come back to the forks in a month or two as I have never ridden a VFR and 90% of my track time has been on 2 strokes so I'm sure some fettling and fine tuning will have to be done.
I've also just cleaned up the rear shock, other options will be explored a bit later.
Took almost an entire day to get 2 of the rims off the hubs, corrosion is definitely my new hate!
I was amazed at how much crud had built up around the front sprocket, had fun cleaning the motor, found a few nuts, screws and washers in the built up crud......
Have the motor on the workbench so shims will be checked one evening this week.
Not entirely sure what I am going to do about fairings and a tailpiece yet, never mind the paint!
Three bikes before I started
Forks in progress
Water damage to forks!!
Swing arm in progress
Next proper headache will be the wiring!
My focus has been on getting a decent roller sorted using the best bits from the 3 bikes I have.
The swingarm was done first, had to do some serious filing and shaping on the adjustment teeth........hammer and flat used by previous owners on all three
Front suspension was disappointing, water ingress in one set with what looked like mud for oil, so built up a set using the best bits from the other sets.
Found two bent tubes as well, one in each set. Put 10 weight oil in, hope they will be ok......will come back to the forks in a month or two as I have never ridden a VFR and 90% of my track time has been on 2 strokes so I'm sure some fettling and fine tuning will have to be done.
I've also just cleaned up the rear shock, other options will be explored a bit later.
Took almost an entire day to get 2 of the rims off the hubs, corrosion is definitely my new hate!
I was amazed at how much crud had built up around the front sprocket, had fun cleaning the motor, found a few nuts, screws and washers in the built up crud......
Have the motor on the workbench so shims will be checked one evening this week.
Not entirely sure what I am going to do about fairings and a tailpiece yet, never mind the paint!
Three bikes before I started
Forks in progress
Water damage to forks!!
Swing arm in progress
Next proper headache will be the wiring!
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Re: Scott's NC30 Track Bike Build
blknoel wrote: ↑Wed Nov 14, 2018 8:22 amIt's true the separate cam assemblies are all different numbers in the parts fiche, but the only way to find out the discrepancies is by measuring cam timings during rebuild, and some members have done engine overhaul so I hope they'll chime in.
My take on this is, as rear cylinders run hotter and in bigger risk of detonation, it would make sense for Honda to be conservative with regards to fueling and/or valve lift/timings. This is confirmed with the carb settings in both the NC30 and NC35 cases. NC30 rear carbs have bigger main jets for more richness, lowering temps. And NC35 carbs albeit using same MJs throughout, are mated to different emulsion tubes front/rear, supposedly achieving the same effect.
So it is quite possible that the rear set of Cams on these engines might be a tad tamer in profile compared to the respective front sets, hence the suggestion swapping the rears for another set of fronts would find a tiny bit more HP which matters for racing, at the expense of durability. As said though, the only way to find out is to measure them back to back.
Thanks for the insight blknoel.
Not sure I will ever run this motor to those extremes!
Parts seem to be scarce......
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Re: Scott's NC30 Track Bike Build
Loosely assembled the front end last night.
Used the best dust seals and mudguard brackets that I had, not great but my intention is to create a lightly restored race bike no a full on restoration.
Used the best dust seals and mudguard brackets that I had, not great but my intention is to create a lightly restored race bike no a full on restoration.
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Re: Scott's NC30 Track Bike Build
I have a RVF 17 inch rear for the bike.
Has anybody run a 160 tyre (Pirelli Supercorsa) and did it affect handling / feel on the bike.
I know 150 is recommended but it will be far cheaper to get a 120 / 160 combo.
Has anybody run a 160 tyre (Pirelli Supercorsa) and did it affect handling / feel on the bike.
I know 150 is recommended but it will be far cheaper to get a 120 / 160 combo.